The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Author: Ed

  • Trimming Voltage Regulators by Stacking SMD Chips

    LM317 Regulator (Partial) Schematic
    LM317 Regulator (Partial) Schematic

    Quite often, the values you need for voltage regulators, like the venerable LM317 and its ilk, don’t work out to anything you have in your parts bin. What to do?

    One of the really nice things about SMD resistors is that you can stack them up without much effort. That parallels their value, so you can only make the final value smaller than any of the stacked resistors, but we can work with that.

    The schematic shows part of a multi-voltage power supply for the EPROM programmer I mentioned there. Normally you use a 240-Ω resistor between the Output and Adjust terminals, but anything in that range will work fine. Alas, when I went to the parts bin, that’s the value I didn’t have any of.

    But, having recently acquired an assortment of 60-some-odd 1% chip resistors, 100 to the bag, I had enough raw material to make it work. In fact, the values in the schematic reflect the parts on hand, which is how it sometimes happens.

    A pair of 499-Ω resistors in parallel gives you 249.5 Ω, close enough to 240 (and shown as 250 because that’s only 0.2% off). Plug that value and the desired voltages into the LM317 equation to find the other resistors:

    12.5 V = 1.25 * (1 + R / 250)

    R = 250 * ((12.5 / 1.25) – 1) = 2250 Ω

    If you happen to have something close to that in your parts heap, great. I didn’t, and a stock 2200 Ω 5% resistor would produce 12.25 V; a bit lower than I wanted.

    Three sets of stacked chip resistors
    Three sets of stacked chip resistors

    This pic shows the solution: stack some SMD resistors to get the right value.

    To make this work easily, you need a calculator that has a reciprocal (1/x or x-1) key. My ancient HP-48 does that, natch, but both of the Official School Calculators our daughter uses has 1/x as a shifted function. Your mileage will certainly vary.

    Anyhow, the reciprocal of the resistance of two parallel resistors, RA and RB, is the sum of their reciprocals. Got that?

    1/R = 1/RA + 1/RB

    If you know the total resistance R that you want and one of the resistors RA, then you find the other resistor RB thusly:

    1/RB = 1/R – 1/RA

    In order to get 2250 Ω, I started with the next higher value in the assortment, 2740 Ω, and turned the crank:

    1/RB = 1/2250 – 1/2740 = 79.4809E-6

    RB = 1/79.4809E-6 = 12.58 kΩ

    As it happens, the assortment didn’t have that value, either, but it did have 15 kΩ. The parallel resistance of 2740 and 15 k is:

    2317 = 1 / (1/2740 + 1/15000)

    So turn the crank one more time to find the third resistor RC:

    1/RC = 1/2250 – 1/2317 = 12.814E-6

    RC = 78.04 kΩ

    Well, that isn’t one of the values I have either, but I do have 82.5 kΩ. The parallel value of those three resistors is:

    1/R = 1/2740 + 1/15000 + 1/82500 = 443.75E-6

    R = 2254 Ω

    Which is 0.1% off the desired value. Close enough.

    Actually, it won’t be nearly that close, because the 2740 Ω resistor can be off by 27 Ω either way. If you really care, measure the actual values and feed those into the equations. If, of course, you can measure resistors better than 1% and you don’t care about temperature effects and suchlike.

    This is appropriate for one-off projects and prototypes, not production runs, but it’s a handy trick to keep in mind. If you want to be fancy, you can lay the circuit board out with parallel resistor tracks and make it look like you knew what you were doing all along…

  • Pressure-washing the Gas Grill: Mind the Overspray

    The instructions for our Weber gas grill would have us lavish more care on it than we do on our car, which isn’t actually saying much. Nonetheless, once a year I gotta clean the crud out, whether it needs it or not, because not even I believe heat kills that stuff.

    Used to be, that was a thoroughly disgusting job of hand-scraping carbonized gunk and scrubbing gooey muck in cramped quarters. Having acquired a pressure washer, cleaning the grill is almost enough fun that I might do it more often. It even gets the mildew (or whatever that schmutz might be) off the wood handles & platforms, which I would have bet was impossible.

    Pressure washer side effects
    Pressure washer side effects

    However, if you’re even a teensy bit fussier than we are about the looks of your castle, you might want to not lay the grates & “flavorizer bars” on the driveway to blast ’em clean. Turns out that the overspray strips the grunge right out of the top layer of asphalt, leaving a white trail behind.

    Looks a lot like those Nasca peteroglyphs, doesn’t it?

    The pressure washer does a great job on the white resin plastic chairs, too, which go from really grubby to chalk-white in one pass.

    Can’t imagine how I got along without it…

    Memo to Self: Next time, use the sawhorses.

  • Red Filter for White LED Bike Headlight

    White 5-LED headlight
    White 5-LED headlight

    As I mentioned there, we have white LED bike headlights clamped to the amateur radio antennas on our bikes, facing rearward to eliminate the “But, Officer, I didn’t see him” line from the accident investigation. That works fine during daylight hours, but it’s rather blinding after dark and, in any event, taillights are supposed to be red (after 1 Nov 2009, they may also be amber).

    The easiest way to get that result, without having to tote along Yet Another Light, is to slip a red filter over the white LED lens. This dramatically reduces the light output, because the yellow phosphor used to get white light out of what’s basically a blue LED doesn’t emit much energy in the red end of the spectrum, but it’s plenty good enough to be seen from the requisite 300 feet.

    Amber filters would be a much, much better match to the phosphor and I’ll use them next year when they’re legal.

    For what it’s worth, we’ve discovered that the more we look like UFOs after dark, the more clearance we get. The bikes are extensively reflectorized and lighted, plus we have reflective arm and leg bands. If somebody hits us, it’s because they did it intentionally; that’s usually the story with drunks and punks, alas.

    Red filter components
    Red filter components

    I cut two transparent disks from ordinary electronics packaging material, plus a red disk from the Primary Red filter material mentioned there, stacked them on the headlight, and fired some big heat stink shrink tubing around them. The tubing extended maybe 3 mm past the end of the headlight and shrank into a neat lip that matched the bezel around the lens.

    The tool to have for this sort of job is an Olfa Compass Circle Cutter. It leaves a pin prick in the center of the circle, but if you’re gentle that won’t be a problem in this application.

    The shrunken tubing will be exceedingly difficult to pull off the headlight, so you may want to wrap a layer of tape around the bezel before shrinking. Peel the tape off when you’re done and the tubing will have a few mils more clearance.

    No adhesive on earth will stick to both the polypropylene disks and the heatshrink tubing, but you can try silicone snot if you want. I made the disks just slightly larger than the bezel so that the tubing captures them as it shrinks. These things spend much of their lives in a ziplock baggie, so durability isn’t an issue.

    Red filter installed
    Red filter installed

    In any event, the filter looks like this when it’s installed. Because of the odd way I mounted the headlights, the side lenses aren’t visible (and they’re white, not red), but we have plenty of other light visible from the side.

    For the straight dope on current NYS bicycle laws, go there, click on the “Laws of New York” link, search for “bicycle”, then click on section 1236. It’s New York’s idea of a useful Web interface: get over it.

    The bezels on our lights are beginning to crack, so it’s probably time to start thinking about a killer street-legal day/night amber taillight. High intensity LEDs are dirt cheap these days…

  • Dragonfly

    I found this fine specimen parked on the underside of a second-floor patio.

    Dragonflies date back to the Age of Dinosaurs, so they’re about as well-tested and proven as an insect can be.

    We enjoy watching them dart overhead in the evening, catching mosquitoes on the wing. We’ll even overlook their grabbing the occasional honeybee

    The body patterns are just beautiful.

    Photo with Sony DSC-H5 from about 5 feet with flash.

  • Batteries.com Alkaline AA Cells: Early Failures Thereof

    Swollen vs normal alkaline AA cells
    Swollen vs normal alkaline AA cells

    I’ve bought plenty of batteries from batteries.com over the years, but the alkaline AA cells I picked up last year have been a real disappointment: some had very short service lives. It took quite a while to figure this out, as I mentioned there, and when I finally got around to checking the rest of the package, most of them were dead… in Spring 2009 with a 12-2012 date code.

    One characteristic of the weak / dead cells is that the negative terminal is swollen, even on the deaders direct from the package. This picture shows four cells removed from service: the front two are used with some remaining charge, the rear two are dead.

    When I checked the package, most of the dead-on-delivery cells had swollen bottoms, so I suspect they had a manufacturing problem with at least one batch of cells.

    A query to batteries.com asking about this got no reply. Perhaps they were busy dealing with the aftermath of their security breach?

    A 48-pack of alkaline cells from the late Circuit City, bought about the same time, seems just fine.

    Memo to self: check the bottom!

  • Arduino Hardware-assisted SPI: Synchronous Serial Data I/O

    Many interesting projects require more digital output bits than the Arduino hardware can support. You then use 74HC595 serial-in/parallel-out chips and that tutorial pretty well explains how it works. The shiftOut() library function squirts a byte out through an arbitrary pin, leading with either the high or low bit.

    Software SPI: Clock and Data
    Software SPI: Clock and Data

    Just drop one byte into shiftOut() for each ‘595 lined up on your board. Remember to latch the bits (LOW-to-HIGH on RCK @ pin 12 of the ‘595) and enable the output drivers (LOW on -G @ pin 13, similarly) when you’re done sending everything. You can have separate latches-and-enables for each ‘595 if that suits your needs, although then you once again run out of Arduino bits pretty quickly. It’s entirely possible to devote a ‘595 to latches-and-enables for the rest of the chain, but that gets weird in short order.

    The scope shot shows that shiftOut() ticks along at 15 µs per bit (clock in the upper trace, data in the lower trace). For back-of-the-envelope purposes, call it 8 kB/s, which is probably less than you expected. If you have a string of 5 external bytes, as I did on a recent project, that’s only 1600 updates / second. It was part of a memory board reader & EPROM programmer: reading an 8 kB ROM chip requires two shift-register runs (one to set the address & data, one to read in the chip output), so the overall rate was on the order of 10 seconds per pass and much worse for programming. You can optimize the number of bits by not shifting out all the bytes, but that’s the general idea.

    Because ‘595 chips are output-only, in order to get 8 bits of data into the Arduino board, add a 74HC166 parallel-in/serial-out chip to the string. Alas, shiftOut() doesn’t know about input bits, so you’re on your own.

    Hardware SPI: Clock and Data
    Hardware SPI: Clock and Data

    If you’re going to have to write some code to get input bits anyway, you may as well use the ATmega168 (and its ilk) hardware SPI as it was intended to be used: for high-speed synchronous serial I/O. This scope shot shows the SPI clock (in the top trace again) ticking along at 1 µs per bit, which is 1/16 the Diecimila’s oscillator frequency. You can pick any power of two between 1/2 and 1/128; I used 1/16 because it’s fast enough to make the rest of the software the limiting factor, while slow enough to not require much attention to layout & so forth.

    Start by Reading The Fine Manual section about the ATmega168’s SPI hardware, starting at page 162.

    The pin definitions, being lashed to internal hardware, are not optional. Note that SCK is also the standard Arduino LED, which won’t be a problem unless you need a tremendous amount of drive for a zillion ‘595s. I stuck an additional LED on Arduino digital pin 2.

    #define PIN_HEARTBEAT     2             // added LED
    #define PIN_SCK          13             // SPI clock (also Arduino LED!)
    #define PIN_MISO         12             // SPI data input
    #define PIN_MOSI         11             // SPI data output
    

    Initial hardware setup goes in the usual setup() function:

    pinMode(PIN_SCK,OUTPUT);       // set up for "manual" SPI directions
    digitalWrite(PIN_SCK,LOW);
    pinMode(PIN_MOSI,OUTPUT);
    digitalWrite(PIN_MOSI,LOW);
    
    pinMode(PIN_MISO,INPUT);       // configure inputs
    digitalWrite(PIN_MISO,HIGH);
    
    SPCR = B01110001;              // Auto SPI: no int, enable, LSB first, master, + edge, leading, f/16
    SPSR = B00000000;              // not double data rate
    

    Basically, the “manual” setup allows you to wiggle the bits by hand with the hardware SPI control disabled.

    Arduino Hardware SPI Schematic
    Arduino Hardware SPI Schematic

    Here’s a chunk of the schematic so you can see how the bits rattle around. You’ll surely want to click it to get the details…

    I put the data in a structure that matches the shift register layout, with the first byte (Controls) connected to the ATmega’s MOSI pin and the last byte (DataIn) connected to MISO. The SCK pin drives all of the serial clock pins on the ‘595 and ‘166 chips in parallel. Your structure will certainly be different; this was intended to suck data from a Tek 492 Spectrum Analyzer memory board.

    typedef struct {      // external hardware shift register layout
     byte Controls;       // assorted control bits
     word Address;        // address value
     byte DataOut;        // output to external devices
     byte DataIn;         // input from external devices
    } SHIFTREG;
    
    SHIFTREG Outbound;    // bits to be shifted out
    SHIFTREG Inbound;     // bits as shifted back in
    

    The functions that make it happen are straightforward:

    void TogglePin(char bitpin) {
     digitalWrite(bitpin,!digitalRead(bitpin));
    }
    void PulsePin(char bitpin) {
     TogglePin(bitpin);
     TogglePin(bitpin);
    }
    
    void EnableSPI(void) {
     SPCR |= 1 << SPE;
    }
    
    void DisableSPI(void) {
     SPCR &= ~(1 << SPE);
    }
    
    void WaitSPIF(void) {
     while (! (SPSR & (1 << SPIF))) {
    //        TogglePin(PIN_HEARTBEAT);       // use these for debugging!
    //        TogglePin(PIN_HEARTBEAT);
     continue;
     }
    }
    
    byte SendRecSPI(byte Dbyte) {             // send one byte, get another in exchange
     SPDR = Dbyte;
     WaitSPIF();
     return SPDR;                             // SPIF will be cleared
    }
    
    void CaptureDataIn(void) {                // does not run the shift register!
     digitalWrite(PIN_ENABLE_SHIFT_DI,LOW);   // allow DI bit capture
     PulsePin(PIN_SCK);                       // latch parallel DI inputs
     digitalWrite(PIN_ENABLE_SHIFT_DI,HIGH);  // allow DI bit shifting
    }
    
    void RunShiftRegister(void) {
     EnableSPI();                             // turn on the SPI hardware
    
     Inbound.DataIn  = SendRecSPI(Outbound.DataIn);
     Inbound.DataOut = SendRecSPI(Outbound.DataOut);
    
     Inbound.Address  =         SendRecSPI(lowByte(Outbound.Address));
     Inbound.Address |= ((word) SendRecSPI(highByte(Outbound.Address))) << 8;
    
     Inbound.Controls = SendRecSPI(Outbound.Controls);
    
     PulsePin(PIN_LATCH_DO);                   // make new shift reg contents visible
     PulsePin(PIN_LATCH_ADDRESS);
     PulsePin(PIN_LATCH_CONTROLS);
    
     DisableSPI();                             // return to manual control
    }
    

    Actually using the thing is also straightforward. Basically, you put the data-to-be-sent in the Outbound variables and call RunShiftRegister(), which drops output bytes into SPDR and yanks incoming bytes out, then stuffing them in the Inbound variables. I have separate latch controls for the Controls, Address, and Data chips, although I don’t use them separately here.

    You must wiggle the parallel latch enable line on the 74HC166 chip before shifting to capture the data, as shown in CaptureDataIn(). That chip also requires a separate pulse on its serial clock line to latch the data, which you do manually with the hardware SPI disabled. If you’re paying attention, you’ll wonder if that clock pulse also screws up the data in the rest of the chips: yes, it does. If this is a problem, you must add some external clock-gating circuitry, disable the ‘595s, or pick a different input shift register chip; it wasn’t a problem for what I was doing.

    Here’s a function that reads data from a RAM chip on the Tek memory board, so it must write the address and read the RAM chip’s output. The PIN_DISABLE_DO bit controls the output buffers on the ‘595 that drives the RAM’s data pins; they must be disabled to read data back from the RAM. Don’t worry about the other undefined bits & suchlike; just assume everything does what the comments would have you believe.

    byte ReadRAM(word Address) {
     digitalWrite(PIN_DISABLE_DO,HIGH);            // turn off data latch output
     digitalWrite(PIN_BUS_READ,HIGH);              // allow RAM read access
    
     Outbound.Controls |=  CB_BUS_CLKPH2_MASK;     // set up RAM -CS gate
     Outbound.Address = Address;
     Outbound.DataOut = 0x55;                      // should not be visible
     RunShiftRegister();
    
     digitalWrite(PIN_BUS_N_SYSRAM,LOW);           // activate RAM -CS
     CaptureDataIn();                              // latch RAM data
     digitalWrite(PIN_BUS_N_SYSRAM,HIGH);          //  ... and turn -CS off
    
     Outbound.Controls &= ~CB_BUS_CLKPH2_MASK;     // disable -CS gate
     RunShiftRegister();                           // tell the board and get data
    
     return Inbound.DataIn;
    }
    
    Hardware SPI - Detail of clock and data timing
    Hardware SPI – Detail of clock and data timing

    Here’s a detailed shot of the outbound bit timing. Notice that the upward clock transitions shift bits into the ‘595 and ‘166 chips, while the SPI output data changes on the downward transitions. You can tweak that to match your hardware if you’re using different shift register chips, by messing with the SPCR settings.

    Bottom line: using the ATmega168 hardware SPI provided a factor-of-15 speedup and serial digital input, too.

  • Silver-soldered Bandsaw Blade Joint

    Usually I replace the blade on my ancient (cast iron!) 14-inch Delta band saw when I can no longer force it through the thing-to-be-cut, which means every few years, tops, unless I procrastinate. Having just stripped the teeth off a foot of blade, it was time for a replacement long before one was due…

    The first step is whacking off 93″ of blade from the 100-foot coil I bought ever so many years ago, using a cold chisel on the vise’s anvil surface. If you’re fussy, wrap a piece of duct tape around the ends-to-be so they don’t fly away after the cut. Otherwise, just enjoy the twang and risk some ritual scarification.

    Scarfing the blade ends
    Scarfing the blade ends

    Clamp the blade to the top of the vise with a half-twist so opposite sides face up, then scarf both ends about halfway through, so the finished joint will be more-or-less the same thickness as the rest of the blade. Chuck up a grinding wheel / cylinder in your Dremel-tool-like gadget, go slow so as to not overheat the joint, and shower your workbench with steel dust.

    To emphasize: note that the teeth face this way on one end and that way on the other! You might want to butt the ends together, but I’m not sure I could get the taper thin enough in the middle that way. You want to cut about halfway through the width of the teeth, too, because they must overlap in the finished joint.

    Preparing solder foil
    Preparing solder foil

    I use a homebrew resistance soldering gadget, but a honkin’ big soldering gun might work. In any event, solder foil works better than solder wire, so I put a snippet of Brownell’s Hi-Force 44 4% silver solder (far more expensive now than when I bought that 1-lb spool long ago) in a stainless-steel sleeve and massage it with a hammer. Crude, but effective: the point is to keep the solder clean, which doesn’t happen when you just whack it on the  anvil.

    Aligning and clamping blade ends
    Aligning and clamping blade ends

    However you do the joint, you must align the blade ends so they’re collinear: you do not want a kink in the middle of the blade. This setup reflects my soldering gear: a graphite slab clamped to a brass plate caught in the vise, an aluminum channel for alignment, and a pair of battery clamps to hold the blade in place. I apply paste flux to both sides of the joint and poke the solder foil into the flux, too. If you squint, you can see the trimmed-to-fit solder foil lying atop the scarfed edge.

    Resistance soldering
    Resistance soldering

    Slide the right side over the left, make sure the teeth on both ends overlay each other, clamp in place, check the alignment, and apply heat. This is a slightly staged shot showing the carbon gouging rod in position well after the joint has solidified. The key advantage of resistance soldering is having a footswitch so you can hold everything in position while the joint cools.

    Thinning the joint
    Thinning the joint

    Clamp the finished blade to the vise and thin both sides to the width of the rest of the blade. If you’ve done a better job of scarfing than I usually do, this is just a matter of tapering the edge a bit. The pic shows the first surface I thinned, so there’s some flux hanging in the teeth. That’ll vanish as you cut if you don’t clear it off while thinning.

    Finished joint - victim's view
    Finished joint – victim's view

    The end result should look like this, as seen from the victim’s position in the bandsaw: no lumps, no bumps, nothing sticking out on either side.

    The whole process takes about half an hour, what with clearing space on the workbench, setting up the soldering gear, deploying the Dremel tool, and cleaning up a bit afterward. That would be crazy in a production environment, which is why they have blade welders bolted to the side of the bandsaws, but it’s OK for something I do every few years.

    I formerly used a propane torch and a fixture to align the pieces, but the resistance soldering unit eliminates the flame and delivers a much better result because it compresses the joint while the solder cools.

    Side views, just for completeness…

    Finished joint - left side
    Finished joint – left side
    Finished joint - right side
    Finished joint – right side