The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Author: Ed

  • Bike Helmet Mic Boom

    Drilling mic enclosure
    Drilling mic enclosure

    This is my latest attempt to come up with a robust electret mic capsule mount for our bike helmets.

    The general idea is to put the capsule in a small brass tube (from my box o’ random cutoffs) soldered to the end of a copper-wire boom lashed to the helmet. The tube provides alignment and physical protection, the boom doesn’t pose a poking hazard, and some decent electrical tape secures the mic cable to the boom.

    The mic capsule has back vents that allegedly provide ambient noise reduction, so the brass tube must be open on both ends. This does not implement the “waterproof” part of the spec; I still haven’t figured that out yet.

    I annealed a length of 12 AWG copper wire to make it easy to bend around the helmet’s contours; two passes with a propane torch to red heat does the deed. It will work-harden quickly and maintain its shape after that.

    AWG 12 wire is 0.080 inches in diameter, close enough to 2 mm that I poked a hole in the brass tubing with a 2 mm end mill. Filed the end of the wire flat, stuffed it in the hole, fluxed the joint, applied the big soldering gun to the wire, flowed some silver solder, and it’s all good. Fairly obviously, this meets my “the bigger the blob, the better the job” soldering criterion…

    Mic rear
    Mic rear

    The capsule has two layers of Kapton tape wrapped around it to snug up the fit, although I doubt that insulating it from the brass tube makes any difference.

    Mic front
    Mic front

    The windscreen is a ball snipped from an open-cell acoustic foam sound deadening panel that has contributed myriad mic windscreens over the years. The mic fits into a slit cut with an X-acto knife; no finesse required. The nylon cable tie will disintegrate from sun exposure at about the same time the foam rots away, which takes about two years.

    Mic foam windscreen ball
    Mic foam windscreen ball

    Despite what you might think, the helmet attachment is dramatically less butt-ugly than in years gone by…

    Boom-to-helmet detail
    Boom-to-helmet detail

    The trick is lashing the bent portion of the boom to the helmet, which prevents the entire boom from rotating around its long axis. That keeps the mic aimed directly at your mouth, regardless of how you bend the boom.

    The earbud wire loops around the mic boom a few times, with the first loop over the boom to take advantage of its rounded surface. With any luck, that will delay the inevitable fatigue failure. Mary favors old-style cylindrical earbuds, rather than newer flat or round ones.

    The USB cable (this is not, repeat not a USB headset) gets lashed to various parts of the helmet foam and routed out to the middle of the back, with the male connector a few inches below the helmet. That puts the cable over the back of the Tour Easy’s seat frame, leaving the bulk of the cable hanging behind the seat. The cable length from the female connector to the radio interface is a delicate trade off between being

    • Long enough to let you stand up and
    • Short enough to stay out of the rear wheel.

    This vertiginous shot looks down at the helmet hanging on the seat of Mary’s bike. Yup, that’s her bright new homebrew seat cover to the upper left…

    Helmet overview
    Helmet overview

    Now, for some power-on hours!

  • Bike Helmet Earbud/Mic Connections

    I’m in the process of reworking the interface box between the amateur radio HTs on our bikes and our helmet-mounted earbud & mic lashup. Mary needed a new helmet before I got the new interface ready, soooo there’s an adapter cable in the middle.

    This time around, the helmet cable uses a male USB-A connector, rather than a female 6-pin Mini-DIN PS/2 keyboard connector. Either one is cheap & readily available as assembled cables, which gets me out of soldering teeny little connector pins. These days, though, USB cables are more common.

    The motivation for a non-latching, low-extraction-force connector at the helmet is that when (not if) you drop the bike, the helmet doesn’t tie your head to the bike and snap your spine. Falls on a recumbent are much less exciting than on an upright bike, but you still want the bike to go that-a-way while you go this-a-way. Been there, done that.

    The old helmet cable connector: female 6-pin mini-DIN. The wire color code is not standardized. Viewed from rear of female connector or the front of the male connector, with the key slot up:

     ear com - Gn   5  |_|  6  K - ear hot
     mic com - Or   3  key  4  Y - mic hot
            gnd - Bn  1   2  R - gnd

    The new helmet cable connector: male USB-A. Mercifully, they standardized the wire colors. Looking at the front of the male USB-A connector with the tab down and the contacts up, the pins are 4 3 2 1:

    • 1 – R – ear hot
    • 2 – W – mic hot
    • 3 – G – mic com
    • 4 – K – ear com

    The female USB-A connector is exactly the same.

    That arrangement should produce the proper twisted pairs in a USB 2.0 cable, but all the USB cables I’ve seen so far lay all four wires in a common twist inside the shield. Maybe it’s the cheap junk I buy, huh?

    It’s worthwhile to scribble some color in the background of the trident USB symbol so it’s easier to mate the connectors.

    Easy-align USB connectors
    Easy-align USB connectors

    Memo to Self: verify the connections & proper operation before shrinking the tubing!

  • Unit Pricing Obfuscation: Nothing Exceeds Like Excess!

    Walmart Tissue Unit Prices
    Walmart Tissue Unit Prices

    What with this being allergy season, my ladies blew through our tissue stockpile in short order and it’s time to reload. Give that we’re just blowing our noses it in, deluxe-edition tissue paper isn’t a priority, but these Wal-Mart unit-price stickers are not nearly as helpful as they could be…

    Hints:

    • The second label is for a shrink-wrapped block of three boxes.
    • The bottom label is for a name-brand tissue that’s unit-priced per sheet.

    Exercises:

    • Which container has the least expensive sheets?
    • The most expensive?
    • Is the 3-pack more or less expensive than a 1-pack?

    Essay: why do you think Wal-Mart does this?

    More unit pricing grumbling.

  • Continuous Flow Inkjet: Tank Topoff

    Just topped off the tanks again…

    • Yellow: 30 ml
    • Light Cyan: 20 ml
    • Cyan: 27 ml
    • Light Magenta: 22 ml
    • Magenta: 30 ml
    • Black: 30 ml

    Back in February I added 40 ml to the Black tank.

    The odd numbers are what was left in the bottom of the bottles

    Memo to Self: That’s about 8 oz = 250 ml of each color and 500 ml of Black since getting the printer in late Dec 2007. Figuring OEM ink at $2/ml: $3500. Current bulk ink cost is on the order of $20/bottle: $140. The continuous ink system was about $50 back then and $100 now.

    The backstory.

  • Chipmunk on High Alert

    The chipmunks are busy cleaning up all the maple seeds from the driveway, but, being chipmunks, they like to stay near a safe spot.

    The absolute best spot to watch for danger seems to be the 4-inch PVC pipe I attached to the garage downspouts: you can see out, but when a threat appears you can run up the downspout!

    [Update: the Cooper’s Hawk just swooped on a red squirrel, missed, and landed on the patio railing as the rodent vanished up the pipe.]

    Chipmunk peering from drainpipe
    Chipmunk peering from drainpipe
  • Sherline Tool Table

    Having recently converted to EMC 2.4 and switched the tool table to the new format, I took the opportunity to add a few useful drills.

    Low numbers are random end mills & suchlike. Number drills run from 100 to 180, and I’ll add more as I need ’em. Fraction drills run from 201 through 264, although it’s highly unlikely I’ll ever fit a 64/64-inch drill in a chuck that also fits in the Sherline spindle.

    All the Z lengths are exactly 1, because I now have a tool length probe that is absolutely wonderful.

    In practice, I use the tool table mostly to tell Axis how to draw the tool cylinder in the backplot, because I feed in most diameters directly in the G-Code. The Axis “manual toolchanger” routine prompt will now serve as a mnemonic for the actual size, but I write the G-Code to emit a (debug, #Drill_Size) message for clarity.

    The  Sherline.ini file references the tool table with the line:

     TOOL_TABLE = Sherline.tbl

    Herewith, Sherline.tbl:

    ; Common end mills
    T1 P1 Z1 D0.1225    ; 1/8
    T2 P2 Z1 D0.1535    ; 5/32
    T3 P3 Z1 D0.187        ; 3/16
    T4 P4 Z1 D0.25        ; 1/4
    T5 P5 Z1 D0.3122    ; 5/16
    T6 P6 Z1 D0.374        ; 3/8
    T7 P7 Z1 D0.4374    ; 7/16
    T8 P8 Z1 D0.4720    ; 1/2
    T20 P20 Z1 D0.09787 ;  2 mm
    ; Number drills
    T107 P107 Z1 D0.201 ;  7     5.11    10-32 clear
    T109 P109 Z1 D0.196 ;  9     4.98    10-32 clear
    T118 P118 Z1 D0.170 ; 18     4.32     8-32 clear
    T121 P121 Z1 D0.159 ; 21     4.04    10-32 tap
    T127 P127 Z1 D0.144 ; 27     3.66     6-32 clear
    T129 P129 Z1 D0.136 ; 29     3.45     8-32 tap
    T136 P136 Z1 D0.107 ; 36     2.72     6-32 tap
    T132 P132 Z1 D0.116 ; 32     2.95     4-40 clear
    T143 P143 Z1 D0.089 ; 43     2.26     4-40 tap
    T141 P141 Z1 D0.096    ; 41     2.44     2-56 clear
    T148 P148 Z1 D0.076 ; 48     1.93     1-72 clear
    T150 P150 Z1 D0.070    ; 50     1.78     2-56 tap 0-80 clear
    T152 P152 Z1 D0.064 ; 52     1.63     0-80 clear
    T153 P153 Z1 D0.060 ; 53     1.52     1-72 tap
    ; Letter drills
    T203 P203 Z1 D0.047 ;  3/64     1.2     0-80 tap
    

    It turns out that the tool table has an undocumented limit of 50-some-odd entries, at least in EMC2 2.4.1. That puts the kibosh on my plans to add a bunch of entries to cover all the drill sizes Eagle might require for a PCB. More on that in a while …

  • Monthly Aphorism: On Cleaning

    • If you have to move it to clean behind it, don’t move it.

    Dad knew that most dirt wasn’t particularly harmful, so he didn’t worry about it. If you had occasion to move something for whatever reason, that was the appropriate time to break out the vacuum cleaner (or shovel) and deal with whatever you find, but there was never a reason to go looking for trouble.

    Of course, I feel the same way. Equally of course, this drives my esteemed wife crazy…