The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Author: Ed

  • Exhibit Hand-Out Cards: QR Version

    I’ve finally had it beaten into my head: any public exhibition requires paper handouts, if only for younger folks who are too shy to ask questions. Paper may seem obsolete, but it serves as a physical reminder long after the sensory overload of a busy event fades away.

    Hence, I made up cards describing my exhibits at the HV Open Mad Science Fair, each sporting a QR code aimed at far more background information than anybody should care about:

    Mad Science Fair - handout cards
    Mad Science Fair – handout cards

    The QR codes come from one-liners:

    qrencode https://softsolder.com/?s=dso150 -s 5 -d 300 -o dso150.png

    So, go ahead, shoot ’em with your phone:

    • Blog search QR code: astable
    • Blog search QR code: bowl-of-fire
    • Blog search QR code: dso150
    • Blog search QR code: halogen
    • Blog search QR code: hp7475a
    • Blog search QR code: tubes

    Memo to Self: put the cards in the Big Box o’ Stuff the night before.

  • Astable Multivibrator Blinkies: Radome Attachment

    Ping-Pong ball radomes tend to fall off their perches at the slightest touch:

    RGB LED - radome test
    RGB LED – radome test

    Because I planned to take my collection along to HV Open’s Mad Science Fair, I finally used a Round Tuit for some adhesive action.

    The general plan was to punch a ring from double-sided tape, thusly:

    Astable - Radome adhesive - poor surface
    Astable – Radome adhesive – poor surface

    The OD required touching up the edge of a brass tube punch I’d made a while ago:

    Astable - Radome adhesive - punch sharpening
    Astable – Radome adhesive – punch sharpening

    It worked exactly as expected:

    Astable - Radome adhesive - punching
    Astable – Radome adhesive – punching

    Unfortunately, the 3D printed spider’s “spherical” socket has such a rough surface that the adhesive had too few contact points to hold the ball in place.

    My fallback has become 3M outdoor-rated double-stick foam tape, so:

    Astable - Radome adhesive - 3M foam tape
    Astable – Radome adhesive – 3M foam tape

    This leaves a small black ring visible between ball and socket. Recessing the foam tape by half its thickness should improve its ahem optics, although it’s probably not worth the effort with black PETG.

  • Walmart Wiper Selector: FAIL

    After five years, I figured it’d be a Good Idea™ to replace the Forester’s wiper blades. Being in the Walmart at the time, I tried to use their helpful Wiper Selector gadget:

    Walmart Wiper Selector
    Walmart Wiper Selector

    You’d think whoever is responsible for updating / replacing such things would have done so several times during the last eight years.

  • Another Garden Hose Y Valve Autopsy

    An outlet thread failed on yet another garden hose Y valve:

    Garden Fittings - Failed Y valve - detail
    Garden Fittings – Failed Y valve – detail

    Out of an abundance of curiosity, I battered the remaining parts out of the carcass:

    Garden Fittings - Failed Y valve - autopsy
    Garden Fittings – Failed Y valve – autopsy

    One of these days, we must buy an assortment of new fittings …

  • Shower Curtain Magnet Anchors

    Back in the day, bathtubs had a porcelain coating over a cast-iron carcass, so embedding little magnets in shower curtains worked perfectly to keep the loose ends from billowing out of the tub. Surprisingly, even here in the future, with plastic bathtubs ruling the land, some shower curtains still have magnets. The mud-job tile walls of shower stall in the Black Bathroom have nary a trace of iron, but we though I could add ferrous targets for a new shower curtain, thusly:

    Shower Curtain Anchor - installed
    Shower Curtain Anchor – installed

    The magnet lives inside a heat-sealed disk, so it’s (more-or-less) isolated from the water. As you’d expect, it’s a cheap ceramic magnet, not a high-performance neodymium super magnet, with no more strength than absolutely necessary to work under the most ideal of conditions.

    My anchors must also be waterproof, firmly attached, non-marking, easily removable, and no more ugly than absolutely necessary. The general idea is to slice the bottom from a pill bottle, entomb a thin steel disk in epoxy, and attach to the tile with a patch of outdoor-rated foam tape.

    So, we begin …

    Cutting a narrow ring from a pill bottle requires a collet around the whole circumference, which started life as some sort of stout aluminum pole:

    Shower Curtain Anchor - cutting tube stock
    Shower Curtain Anchor – cutting tube stock

    Bore out the inside, with a small step to locate the bottle:

    Shower Curtain Anchor - boring fixture
    Shower Curtain Anchor – boring fixture

    Clean up the outside, just for pretty:

    Shower Curtain Anchor - turning fixture OD
    Shower Curtain Anchor – turning fixture OD

    Slit the fixture to let it collapse around the bottle, then chuck up the first victim with support from a conveniently sized drill chuck in the tailstock:

    Shower Curtain Anchor - cutting bottle
    Shower Curtain Anchor – cutting bottle

    I did a better job of cutting the second bottle to the proper length:

    Shower Curtain Anchor - parting base
    Shower Curtain Anchor – parting base

    Nibble disks from sheet metal, half-fill the bottle bottoms with steel-filled (and, thus, magnetic!) JB Weld epoxy, insert disks, add sufficient epoxy to cover the evidence:

    Shower Curtain Anchor - epoxy curing
    Shower Curtain Anchor – epoxy curing

    Fast-forward to the next day, punch out two disks of double-sided foam tape:

    Shower Curtain Anchor - adhesive foam
    Shower Curtain Anchor – adhesive foam

    Affix, install, and it’s all good.

    Actually, it’s not. The ceramic magnets are so weak they don’t hold the curtain nearly well enough to satisfy me. The next anchor iteration should have embedded neodymium magnets to attract the curtain’s crappy ceramic magnets, but this is Good Enough™ for now.

  • HP 7475A Plotter: Ceramic-Tip Pen EOL

    Ceramic-tip plotter pens draw wonderfully crisp lines:

    Spirograph pattern - black ceramic pen - detail
    Spirograph pattern – black ceramic pen – detail

    Eventually, though, the fiber tip wears flush with the ceramic shell, becomes slightly indented, and ceases to make its mark in the world:

    HP 7475A Plotter - Ceramic pen - worn tip
    HP 7475A Plotter – Ceramic pen – worn tip

    As the lady says, “Starting from zero, got nothing to lose”, so I applied a fine diamond file around the tip:

    HP 7475A Plotter - Ceramic pen - filed tip
    HP 7475A Plotter – Ceramic pen – filed tip

    Well, all I can say is it seemed like a good idea at the time.

    Alas, even the newly exposed fiber didn’t make much of a mark on the paper and, as you’d expect, the ragged ceramic tip dragged painfully across the paper. I assume the fiber had filled with fossilized dry ink.

    A New Old Stock bag of fiber-tip pens emerged from the Big Box o’ Pens while I was flailing around:

    HP 7475A Plotter - NOS Green pen package
    HP 7475A Plotter – NOS Green pen package

    I think the “812” in the lower right corner is a date code, most likely early in 1988, so the pens started their lifetime countdown at least three decades ago. They still work, though:

    HP 7475A Plotter - NOS Green pens
    HP 7475A Plotter – NOS Green pens

    The plotter appeared at HV Open’s Mad Science Fair, because everybody loves a plotter!

  • Kinesis Freestyle 2: Steel Tactile Bumps

    Adding tape bumps to the worn Kinesis keyboard demonstrated I really need tactile home keys, so I popped the tops and fired up the Sherline mill:

    Kinesis keyboard - 2 mm drilling
    Kinesis keyboard – 2 mm drilling

    That’s a genuine 2 mm carbide end mill, poked 1 mm into the key cap, snuggled right up against the front edge.

    Two epoxy dabs and some wiping later:

    Kinesis keyboard - 2 mm tactile bearings
    Kinesis keyboard – 2 mm tactile bearings

    The careful alignment on the F key tells you I did it first; obviously, I should make better fixtures.

    The holes could be slightly larger and maybe slightly deeper, but the bearings feel just right.

    Indeed, they work so well a ball now distinguishes the far-flung Delete and Backspace keys:

    Kinesis keyboard - 2 mm bearing - Delete key
    Kinesis keyboard – 2 mm bearing – Delete key

    Now, to see how long the epoxy lasts …