The next step in the process for this board: toner transfer masking.
What you see here follows the basic process given by the folks at Pulsar, so go there for the instructions & supplies. The overall flow is:
- Print the PCB trace pattern on the special paper
- Align to the circuit board
- Tape in place
- Fuse toner to PCB
- Apply green sealant film
- Repeat for the other side
An Eagle CAM file (found there in Useful Stuff) creates Postscript files for the top & bottom copper (and the silkscreen, although I don’t use that).
I load those PS files in The GIMP at 600 dpi with mild antialiasing, crop (autoshrink!), combine into a single image, then print on a single sheet of paper using an HP Laserjet 1200 (obsolete, but pretty nearly any laser printer should work).
Turn off all the toner saving features; you want a really dark image with plenty of toner!
I run a sheet of paper through to find out exactly where the images will wind up, then tape the transfer paper atop the images (shiny side up!) using laser address labels (because they can take the heat) on the first-to-enter end of the transfer paper.
Vital step: run that whole assembly through the printer to print a blank page. This cooks the moisture out of the transfer paper and pre-shrinks it for the next step. This might not matter for very small circuit boards, but if you’re doing anything over an inch or so, it makes a big difference.
Run it through the printer again to print the trace patterns. They should wind up exactly in the middle of the transfer papers, although you’ll be surprised at how far off they can be from the patterns on the sheet underneath. Lasers have great dot resolution, but are not particularly accurate at locating the paper relative to the printing drum. That doesn’t matter for ordinary documents, but be sure you leave more margin on the transfer paper around your patterns than you think necessary.
Use the printer’s manual-feed feature to queue up all three prints at once. My printer is in the basement laboratory and my comfy chair is upstairs, so that saves several trips up & down the stairs. Not that I can’t use the exercise, mind you, but it’s the principle of the thing.
Cut the transfer paper off the backing sheet. Don’t bother trying to un-stick the labels; they’re fused solid. Stick another label on the back side of the transfer paper along shortest side.
Alignment trick: now lay the paper pattern-side-up on a light table (I use an old fluorescent fixture with a frosted-glass lens), lay the board atop it, and adjust for best hole alignment over the whole board. The trace patterns on the paper form very nice bright spots that shine up through the holes in the circuit board. You can do it with the board on the bottom, but this way works better.
You’ll be dismayed at how far off some of the holes are, but you should get within perhaps 10 mils all across the board. Squish the board down on the sticky side of the label and fold the label over the top of the board. That anchors the paper to the board and, because the label is fairly wide, keeps the paper from twisting relative to the board.
Flip it over, verify that the holes still line up by looking through the paper, then apply labels to the sides to hold the transfer paper flat and in alignment. I’ve tried it without the side attachments and the result is, ahem, not quite as good. You can see the label residue on the front side in the photo above; obvously, you’ll be cleaning the gunk off before doing that side.
I’ve tried the clothes-iron technique with little success, so I have one of the heated roller fusers. Works pretty well, although it requires some fiddling to get the proper combination of heat and spacing.
Add water, let the paper soften, peel it off.
Run it through the fuser again with the green sealer film. I get better results with a layer of ordinary paper atop the green film, perhaps because that prevents the film from touching anything inside the fuser. Without the paper, the film sometimes transfers lengthwise scratches to the toner.
Peel off the film and touch up any imperfections with an Ultra-Fine-Point Sharpie; I use orange to make the corrections easy to see against the green background. Those are the highly visible ugly marks on the bottom mask.
Having masked one side, etch it. Then you mask the other side and etch that. Don’t try to get clever and do both sides at once; it doesn’t work. Ask me how I know.
Next step: etching. More on that later…
Suggestions: after you etch the first side, leave the mask in place to protect the copper. When you run the board through the fuser, add a sheet of paper on the masked side to keep the film and toner from coming off on the rollers.
Memo to self: always pre-shrink the transfer paper.