Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Looks kinda pallid to me, too, although hardcore BarbieCore is also most definitely not our thing.
Anyhow, the motor didn’t even twitch when pressing the button, so after I verified the two AA alkaline cells were Just Fine, I laid it on the Electronics Bench and popped the top to see what was the matter:
Sidewinder bobbin winder – interior wiring
For the record, the red and black wires at the battery compartment are exactly reversed from what you might expect based on, say, the colors of your multimeter probes. I know better, but it comes as a surprise every time.
The pushbutton switch pulls in the relay (red block in the middle), which latches on until the bobbin fills and the accumulated thread lifts the finger riding on the bobbin to rotate the white cam (under the motor), thus opening the switch (black block), releasing the relay, and shutting off the motor.
Which, of course, worked perfectly after I stuck the alkalines back in place on the bench and poked the button to watch the proceedings.
It’s all back together again and continues to run, so I’ll declare victory until the next time she fills a bobbin and, predictably, it doesn’t start.
Mary gave her Juki TL-2010Q sewing machine a deep cleaning & oiling, deputizing me to remove & replace the covers.
For the record, standing the machine on its left end is the least-awful way to get the bottom cover off and on:
Juki TL2010Q – bottom cover on end
You must remove all six of those husky screws; the black feet remain firmly stuck in their recesses. It’s not particularly stable in that orientation, so keep a firm hand on the top to prevent an expensive fall.
I laid it down for the rest of the session:
Juki TL2010Q – interior cleaning
She was unenthusiastic about wearing my headband light. Maybe next time.
It reassembled in reverse order and, after a brief tussle with the bobbin winder finger in the upper covers, runs smoothly.
The object of the game being to tilt the LED strip lights at (maybe) 30° to put more light higher on the wall and further out on the ceiling, with the overriding constraint of no visible holes. Given their eventual home atop the window moulding along the front wall of the Living Sewing Room, these seemed adequate:
LED Bar Lamp Mount – solid model
The hole on the angled part fits an M4 brass insert and the recessed holes capture the washer-like head of a sharp-point lath screw.
Two pairs applied to the lights sitting atop the Fabric Cabinets served to verify the fit:
LED strip light – moulding mount – on cabinet
They’re held firmly by the aluminum extrusion and don’t need a bigger footprint to remain stable.
So I made another six, stuck on ⅞ inch strips of aluminized Mylar (cut from a bag in much better condition), and drilled holes where they can’t be seen:
LED strip light – moulding mount – installed
It’s almost too bright in there with 3 × 40 W of LED lights washing the wall and ceiling:
LED strip light – moulding mount – lit
I don’t like the cold 6000 K color temperature, but Mary doesn’t mind it. They fill the Sewing Table with shadowless / glareless light, although that kind of light makes the place look like a store.
I think moving the strip lower and away from the wall could hide the entire mount from view.
Contrary to what I expected, the Mylar reflectors must be at least an inch tall to avoid Baily’s Beads seen from across the room:
LED strip light – short reflector
With all that in mind, we’ll run these for a while to shake out any other improvements.
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This is a quick-and-ugly test to see how well aluminized Mylar will work as a reflective shade for some LED light bars eventually washing the Living / Sewing room ceiling with enough light to brighten the Sewing Table:
LED strip light – Mylar reflector – ugly fit
The key question: how well adhesive adheres Mylar to the pleasantly warm aluminum extrusion serving as the heatsink for 40 W of LEDs:
LED strip light – Mylar reflector – adhesive strips
Perhaps surprisingly, those ½ inch strips come from an A4 sheet by way of a paper cutter.
The LED bars will be directly visible, so bouncing the direct light against the wall reduces glare and puts it to good use.
The Mylar strips are 1 inch wide, cut with a utility knife against a straightedge, although ⅞ inch seems adequate. The last LED over on the right sits at the endcap, so I will (try to) tuck the Mylar ends under the caps for a cleaner fit.
The bars have two 4 foot strips of LEDs in series, with a lump of circuitry buried in the aluminum extrusion that seems be a bridge rectifier and a small electrolytic capacitor. There’s not nearly enough capacitance to knock down the 120 Hz flicker and I have an uneasy expectation of stroboscopic effects on the sewing machines.
Having devoted considerable effort to smoothing the HQ Sixteen’s path across the table, with commensurate improvement, Mary reported the machine suddenly developed a severe hitch in its left-to-right git-along. Given that she is moving fifty pounds of machine with fingertip pressure, anything interrupting its progress is a problem.
We found a spot where the machine abruptly and repeatably stopped rolling, but none of the four wheels had a visible problem and both tracks were smooth. The stitch regulator wheel sat directly above a table surface joint on the track base, but lifting it didn’t change the glitch. Rolling the machine while lifting the rear wheels off the track, which is significantly more difficult than it may seem, still encountered the bump.
Rolling while lifting the front wheels went smoothly, so something was wrong with one of the front wheels. I put the machine back at the worst spot, marked the bottom of both wheel rims, lifted-and-rotated the left wheel half a turn, and found the glitch happened with the right wheel’s mark downward.
I lifted the machine off the carriage, took the carriage to the Basement Shop, and discovered what we could not see in situ:
HQ Sixteen – wheel crud – detail
For scale, the wheels are 8 mm across the flanges.
That thing looks like this up close:
HQ Sixteen – wheel crud – detail
The fibers were almost invisible in my palm as I carried it upstairs to show it off.
Apparently, a few millimeters of plastic fiber dropped from space directly onto the track and got mashed into the wheel as it rolled along. Given the vast expanses of fabric & batting going into projects on a long-arm sewing machine, that crud could have come from anywhere.
As we now realize just how much trouble can come from a tiny bit of crud, finding the next hitch in the git-along will be easier.
Both of those “projects”, which may be too grand a term, went from “I need a thing” to having one in hand over the course of a few minutes yesterday. Neither required a great deal of thought, having previously worked out the proper speed / power settings to cut 3 mm MDF and 1 mm cork.
Other folks may lead you to believe lasers are all about fancy artwork and elaborate finished products. Being the type of guy who mostly fixes things, I’d say lasers are all about making small and generally simple parts, when and where they’re needed, to solve a problem nobody else has.
Perhaps I should devote more attention to using fancy wood with a hand-rubbed wax finish, but MDF fills my simple needs.
With a laser and a 3D printer, shop tools have definitely improved since the Bad Old Days!
The Handi-Quilter HQ Sixteen rides on two tracks along the 11 foot length of the table, with an unsupported 8 foot span between the legs on each end:
HQ Sixteen – remounted handlebars in use
Contemporary versions of the table have support struts in the middle that our OG version lacks and, as a result, our table had a distinct sag in the middle. During the course of aligning the table top into a plane surface with tapered wood shims, I discovered the floor was half an inch out of level between the table legs.
Now that the whole thing has settled into place, I measured the shim thicknesses and made tidy blocks to replace them:
HQ Sixteen – table shims – finished
The OpenSCAD code has an array with the thickness and the number of blocks:
Yes, I call them “blocks” here and wrote “shims” in the code. A foolish consistency, etc.
The model is a chamfered block with a chunk removed to leave a tongue of the appropriate thickness:
HQ Sixteen – table shims – solid model
Building them with the label against the platform produces a nice nubbly surface:
HQ Sixteen – table shims – PrusaSlicer – bottom
The labels print first and look lonely out there by themselves:
HQ Sixteen – table shims – legends
The rest of the first layer fills in around the labels:
HQ Sixteen – table shims – first layer
Putting the labels on the bottom makes the wipe tower only two layers tall and eliminates filament changes above those layers. Those eight blocks still took a little over three hours, because there’s a lot of perimeter wrapped around not much interior.
Having had the foresight to draw a sketch showing where each block would go, I slid one next to its wood shim, yanked the shim out, and declared victory:
HQ Sixteen – table shims – installed
The tension rod welded under the table rail prevents even more sag, but the struts under the new version of the table show other folks were unhappy with the sag of this one. Another leg or two seems appropriate.
With the table leveled and the surface aligned, the HQ Sixteen glides easily in all directions. The result isn’t perfect and Mary keeps the anchor block at hand, but the machine now displays much less enthusiasm for rolling toward the middle of the table.
The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:
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