The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Repairs

If it used to work, it can work again

  • Oven Tube Burnout

    Burned Oven Tube Overview
    Burned Oven Tube Overview
    Burned Oven Tube
    Burned Oven Tube

    So the oven made a weird whooshing noise every now & again, but nothing we could pin down or duplicate to debug. Then it sort of stopped heating, even though the ignitor was glowing, and the kitchen smelled of unburned propane and hot plastic.

    Emergency stop, shut off the gas valve, finish the chili and cornbread in the ‘waver and toaster oven, let ‘er cool down, dig out the repair parts manual from the file cabinet.

    Dismantled the oven and found a weird encrustation on the burner tube. I wasn’t sure if the tube was supposed to have a dingus that meters the ignition gas at some known rate, but scratching at the lump made it look as though the tube simply burned through and corroded. The size of that hole would certainly make the gas whoosh a bit.

    Note the soot lines. The heat shield over the tube had a soot smudge, too, which I think caused the “plastic” smell.

    The replacement part from Sears is $80. It’s $50 from RepairClinic.com and they throw in the ignitor module that’s $70 from Sears. Judging from their picture the burner tube has three little holes that blow gas over the ignitor, no metal dingus. You can see the holes in the second picture.

    So a new burner tube (and ignitor, which I’ll zip-tie to the back of the oven) is on order.

    Update: of course the new ignitor doesn’t fit on the old tube, nor does the old ignitor fit on the new tube. And the connectors are completely different. Had to dig some ceramic wire nuts out of the parts stash; I knew I’d been saving them for some good reason.

    Grrrr & similar remarks…

  • Steel Preservation, The Good Old Days of

    Cadmium plated hangers
    Cadmium plated hangers

    Last year I geared up for scraping the soffits and figured I should put a piece of plywood across the windows so I couldn’t possibly have the ladder fall into a window. The storm windows are big, awkward inserts that hang from hooks atop the frames, so I planned to cut a plywood blank to match the opening.

    Gene left us a cigar box of “Storm Window Hdwr” containing this card of hooks-and-eyes that looked just like the ones on the windows. Alas, they’re not quite the same and don’t quite fit, a fact I discovered after mounting them and manhandling the sheet out the window. So much for “standard size”.

    But I’m sure the hardware on the side of the house looks as good as it does because it’s cadmium-plated, too! None of the hooks & eyes have a hint of rust, other than where the edges scrape together, after half a century.

    I heroically refrained from sucking my thumb afterward…

  • Rehabilitating an Old Variac

    Variac Rotor Before Fixup
    Variac Rotor Before Fixup
    Variac Brush Holder and Staking
    Variac Brush Holder and Staking
    Variac Rotor After Fixup
    Variac Rotor After Fixup

    So I’ve had this ancient 5 A Variac on the heap for far too long, finally came up with an actual application, and discovered that not only was the line cord shot, it basically didn’t work.

    Of course, I had to replace the cord & outlet before I discovered that it didn’t work…

    The classic Variac failure happens when the carbon brush wears down to nothing, at which point the holder scrapes on the windings and the whole thing burns out. In this case, the brush still had 3/16″ left, but the sliding holder was firmly corroded in place.

    I soaked it in PB’laster, rapped it all over with a small drift punch, and managed to drive the holder out. In the process, the brass sleeve around the brush holder came out, putting the entire problem on the bench.

    The rotor had two brass rivets securing the brush contact bar (the part that’s connected to the actual brush holder by a length of copper braid) that would not come out, nohow. After I broke one off (the first picture), I found that they were swaged over on the bottom, so I broke the other one off and punched both stubs out.

    I spent a few hours wearing a headband magnifier and gently filing everything to a pair of slip fits: brush holder into sleeve, sleeve into rotor. The rotor is aluminum, so I applied a liberal dose of oxidation inhibitor, slipped the sleeve in place, and staked that sucker down.

    Which meant I spent another half hour filing the brush holder to restore the slip fit…

    Turned out that the rivets were 40 mils, the holes were 43, and 00-90 machine screws are 43.5. I don’t have a 00-90 tap (mostly because I know I’d break it by looking hard at it), so I just ran a screw into the hole and formed the threads. They must have 10% engagement, tops, but this isn’t a high-stress application.

    This is, I think, the first time I’ve ever used those 00-90 screws and nuts. The washers are 0-80 so they reach over the brush contact bar far enough to hold it in place. Dang, those things are small!

    The main conduction path seems to be through a brass slip contact, into the aluminum rotor, through the brass sleeve, and into the carbon brush. I’m not convinced the rivets / screws conduct any appreciable amount of current to the contact bar and through the braid, but I shined up the contact patches anyway.

    Put it all back together, fired it up, and it worked!

    Ought to be good for the next half-century, at least…

  • Replacing a Refrigerator Bulb

    Chandelier Bulb in Refrigerator
    Chandelier Bulb in Refrigerator

    Subtitle: ya gotta have stuff!

    Our refrigerator went dim; poking around inside revealed one of the two bulbs was dead.

    It was obviously a replacement: both are 40-W flame-shaped bulbs that I bought for the chandelier that might still hang in 89 Burbank Road. I intended to leave them for the new owners, but they got swept up in the moving frenzy.

    Being the sort of bear I am, I had written the replacement date on the bulb’s base: May 01. So that fancy bulb survived only six years!

    Nothing lasts!

    I picked the next-to-last flame-shaped bulb from the “Decorative Bulbs” box in the basement storage room, wrote the date on it (with a notation that the last one lasted 6 years), and screwed it in. Problem solved!

    Being the sort of bear I am, I can do all that with a completely straight face…

  • Fuse Failure

    Burned Fuse
    Burned Fuse

    The electric water heater in the rental house stopped working. I found this in the fusebox.

    Looks like it’d been simmering for a while!

    Fuses never (uh, rarely) fail as shorts, but sometimes they don’t fail open. The block and fuse box don’t look overheated and seem to be OK, but, sheesh…

  • Shower Drain Stoppage

    A while ago the shower drain in our black bathroom stopped draining. I’d noticed that the adjacent (and upstream) toilet was sometimes flushing strangely, although we attributed this to our darling daughter’s habit of occasionally emitting an incredible pot-clogging ceramic turd. Perhaps she inherited that ability from me?

    So I was prepared for the worst: an accumulation of, um, stuff, at the right-angle bend just downstream of the shower. My IR thermometer showed the heat from the shower water dropped off right around the bend, suggesting that the flow wasn’t so great. Tapping the cast-iron pipe wasn’t conclusive as it all pretty much sounds like it’s solid anyway… built to last a thousand years, as the saying goes, with hammered-lead joints.

    The other bathroom had no problems and the pipes down there (some newer PVC from the tub & sink) were not full of drain water. So the stoppage was between the shower and those inlets.

    The line has a convenient 3″ brass (!) cleanout plug upstream of the section in question, so if I got the plug out I could see the kitchen & black bathroom inlets, as well as the offending turn. Of course, the plug was firmly stuck and didn’t yield to main force (me hanging on the end of the mighty 3/4″ socket wrench handle), the application of penetrating sprays, or a brutal hammer-and-chisel assault.

    So I biked off to Lowe’s for a pair (there’s a second cleanout plug far downstream and you just never know) of 3″ PVC plugs.

    Returned home, deployed the 3″ hole saw, and drilled a neat hole in the middle of the brass plug. This being plumbing, a 3″ plug is actually 3-1/2″ OD and the saw left a 1/4″ ring with the threads. Another application of the chisel folded the ring in on itself and some wiggling pulled it free.

    We’d used no upstream water so I didn’t expect much in the pipe but nothing came out to greet the saw. In fact, the pipe was clean & clear all the way around the bend, with only a nasty, slimy hairball hanging from the shower/sink drain inlet.

    So it was just a glob in the shower drain, not the main line, after all. Sometimes I’m really glad to be proved wrong! Why the IR showed heat stopping at the bend I do not know, but it goes to show you never can tell.

    Screwed a PVC plug in place, ran some water into the shower, deployed a Plumber’s Friend with a vigorous up-and-down motion, and after a few strangled hoosha-woogas the drain went BLORT and all the water exited as usual. I’m afraid to find out if the entire hairball is hanging in the main line, but I suppose I should take a peek.

    Now, if I’d tried that before examining the inside of the big pipe, the first hoosha-wooga would have affixed a ceramic turd on the ceiling.

    Depend on it!

  • Stainless Steel Band Clamps, Endurance Thereof

    cimg1422-stainless-steel-hose-clamps
    Corroded Band Clamps

    As part of clearing the area for our fence project out back, I sawed off a few more lengths of ol’ Gene’s irrigation line and hauled them out of the battle zone. The line ran from the pump house (about 200 feet from the creek), up the hill, and about 400 feet along the property line to our house.

    Presumably the plants really liked creek water…

    Anyhow, he used a variety of hose clamps to hold the PVC pipe to the barbed fittings. They’ve been out in the weather, under the leaves, and generally left to rot for about two decades.

    I salvaged the few clamps that were all-stainless steel, because they were in great shape.

    The others have beautiful shiny bands with rotted worm screws and housings. Some are little more than rusty lumps that, if you didn’t know they were a screw, you’d never guess.

    Moral of the story: make sure the clamps are all stainless steel.

    I have no clue how you’d do that, though, because none of the clamps I’ve ever bought came with labels and I’d never trust the box on the LowePot shelf to match its contents.

    Maybe I should add a magnet to my chandelier o’ gear, right next to the credit cards in my wallet?

    Grrr…