The kitchen faucet worked its way loose again. Attempting to shut off the water revealed a pair of leaky valves under the sink, so I shut off the house water in the basement, cut the valve pipes below the solder drips, and installed a pair of push-connect shutoffs:

I loves me some good push-connect fitting action, which is new news to me. Back in the Bad Old Days™, I’d be under the sink with a propane torch, trying to solder a pair of wet pipes and failing miserably.
With that out of the way and the faucet dismantled for the first time (by my hands, anyway), the threads holding the base to the spout column may have been damaged during factory assembly:

I thought the gunk was thread lock compound, but it’s shredded plastic from the base fitting threads. The corresponding female threads inside the spout column are undamaged, so I think somebody tried screwing it together with the threads misaligned, backed off, then muscled it together.
It’s worth noting there are no keys or stops fixing the correct orientation of any of these parts. In particular, the trim ring bearing the small Front label (facing you in the picture) has no fixed orientation: whoever assembles the faucet in the factory must position it correctly on the fly as the base screws into the column and jams tight.
So I cleaned up the damaged threads as best I could, flipped the threaded brass tube end-for-end to put the cleanest part into the base, and reassembled everything with careful attention to starting the threads correctly:

Tightening the base fitting into the column is much easier with everything on the kitchen counter, although centering the label on the molded opening required several tries.
Protip: a pair of grippy gloves and rubber sheets help a lot.
I want to find out how secure the original design, properly tightened and aligned, will be, so I did not apply any threadlocker.























