Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
The desiccant definitely lasts longer during the winter, even though the dehumidifier fights the basement air to a standstill around 55%RH during the summer.
Each desiccant bag contains 500 g of silica gel and the most recent one adsorbed 73 g of water.
Mary bought a pair of Revlon tweezers a while ago, picking a Name Brand to avoid hassles with bottom-dollar crap:
Revlon tweezers – bad spot welds
Well, that didn’t work.
I contend that the only difference between Name Brands and the bottom-dollar crap I tend to buy is a bit of QC and a lot of price. I’ll agree that’s not strictly true, but it does fit a goodly chunk of the observed data.
Anyhow.
I milled a recess into the corner of some scrap plastic to locate the handle end, then arranged a step block to capture the business end:
Revlon tweezers – drilling setup
That setup ensures the holes go into the corresponding spots on both pieces, because I couldn’t figure out how to clamp them together and drill them both at once. I drilled the other piece with its good side up to align the holes; doing it bad side up would offset the holes if they’re not exactly along the center line.
A closer look:
Revlon tweezers – drilling fixture
Talk about a precarious grip on the workpiece!
I filed the welds flat before drilling, so the pieces lay flat and didn’t distract the drill.
Then:
Center-drill
Drill 2-56 clearance
Scuff up mating surfaces with coarse sandpaper
Apply epoxy
Insert screws
Add Loctite
Tighten nuts to a snug fit
Align jaws
Tighten nuts
Fine-tune jaw alignment
Apply mild clamping force to hold jaws together
Wait overnight
Saw screws and file flush
Done!
The clamping step:
Revlon tweezers – epoxy curing
Those nicely aligned and ground-to-fit jaws were the reason Mary bought this thing in the first place.
The screw heads look OK, in a techie sort of way:
Revlon tweezers – fixed – front
The backside won’t win any awards:
Revlon tweezers – fixed – rear
But it won’t come apart ever again!
There’s surely a Revlon warranty covering manufacturing defects, printed on the long-discarded packaging, that requires mailing the parts with the original receipt back to some random address at our own expense.
These sunglasses fit Mary’s face and do a good job of keeping road grit out of her eyes, but she doesn’t like the extended earpieces. So I cut ’em off:
Ironman sunglasses – trimmed earpieces
The trick is to shape the ends with an ordinary diagonal cutter, then round the edges with sandpaper.
The lower pair has seen a few years of use, during which the bright yellow plastic faded quite a bit.
Nothing profound, other than that you need not put up with nuisances.
In these degenerate times, it seems anyone can just buy a crysknife:
Farberware ceramic knife
Admittedly, it lacks the original’s kinjal shape and curved blade. We once had a double-edged, serrated kitchen knife and I swore a mighty oath on the bones of my ancestors to never, ever make that mistake again.
Surprisingly, the plastic handle balances well with the ceramic blade: no need for another tungsten counterweight. The handle extends slightly below the blade’s heel, which may call for some abrasive adjustment.
The blade is slightly thicker than the wonderful steel santokuknives we’ve been using forever and doesn’t taper uniformly from spine to edge, so it’s no good for constrained cutting (like quartering an apple). The hollow-ground section behind the edge forms a wedge that cracks apples apart, unlike the santoku’s full-width taper that just slides right through.
I was mildly surprised to find that it’s no sharper (perhaps that’s “no more keen”) than our steel knives, but, then, I’m wicked with the sharpening steel. The edge arrived minus a few tiny chips and I suspect we’ll add more in normal use, right up to the moment when one of us drops it on the floor.
A gotcha: that blade’s eyeblink affordance is harmless plastic. I must remind myself it’s a real knife with a lethally sharp edge.
Thus far, we’ve sheathed the blade unblooded, in clear violation of the Fremen ritual. May it ever be so…
Given the fragility of ferrite toroids in general and slit toroids in particular, a touch of up-armoring seems sensible:
FT82-43 toroid – mounted
The solid model includes a toroid shell with roughly the right curves:
Toroid Mount – Show layout
That puts a nice rounded shape on the bottom of the armor, not that that makes much difference:
Toroid Mount – Build layout
The central hole passes a 4-40 brass, nylon, or stainless steel screw. Most of the magnetic field stays within the ferrite and, heck, this isn’t a crazy-sensitive analog application, so even an ordinary steel screw shouldn’t cause any particular problems.
The rectangular (not pie-wedge) slit barely passes the Hall effect sensor.
I’ll pour some clear epoxy over the toroid, with tape masking the ferrite core and sealing the ends, to immobilize the windings. That sounds like a good idea after calibration and suchlike.
The OpenSCAD source code, which should be sufficiently parametric that I can crank ’em out for all the other toroids large enough to accept a screw:
// Toroid coil mounting bracket
// Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - August 2014
Layout = "Mount"; // Coil Mount Build Show
//- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
// Print with 4 shells and 3 solid layers
ThreadThick = 0.20;
ThreadWidth = 0.40;
HoleWindage = 0.2; // extra clearance
Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
AlignPinOD = 1.70; // assembly alignment pins: filament dia
function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
//----------------------
// Dimensions
ID = 0; // subscripts for cylindrical objects
OD = 1;
LEN = 2;
Coil = [10.25,23.50,8.3]; // wound toroid core
SensorThick = 2.0;
BaseThick = IntegerMultiple(1.0,ThreadThick); // baseplate under coil
WallThick = IntegerMultiple(1.0,ThreadWidth); // walls beside coil
ScrewHoleDia = 4.0; // allow alignment slop around 3 mm / #4 screws
//----------------------
// Useful routines
module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
h=Height,
$fn=Sides);
}
module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
RangeX = floor(100 / Space);
RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
%cube(Size,center=true);
}
//----------------------
// Basic coil shape
module CoilShape() {
CornerRadius = min((Coil[LEN] / 2),((Coil[OD] - Coil[ID]) / 2)) / 3;
MidRadius = (Coil[ID] + Coil[OD]) / 4;
HalfX = (Coil[OD] - Coil[ID]) / 4 - CornerRadius;
HalfY = (Coil[LEN] / 2) - CornerRadius;
echo(CornerRadius,MidRadius,HalfX,HalfY);
color("Goldenrod")
render(convexity = 2)
rotate(180/20)
rotate_extrude(convexity=3,$fn=20)
translate([MidRadius,0])
hull()
for (i=[-1,1],j=[-1,1])
translate([i*HalfX,j*HalfY])
circle(r=CornerRadius,$fn=24);
}
//----------------------
// Mount
module Mount() {
difference() {
rotate(180/20)
cylinder(h=(BaseThick + Coil[LEN]),d=(Coil[OD] + 2*WallThick),$fn=20);
translate([0,0,-Coil[LEN]]) // make screw hole
rotate(180/6)
PolyCyl(ScrewHoleDia,3*Coil[LEN],$fn=6);
translate([0,0,BaseThick + Coil[LEN]/2]) // set bottom curve
CoilShape();
translate([0,0,BaseThick + Coil[LEN]]) // clear out top
CoilShape();
translate([(Coil[ID]/2 + Coil[OD]/2),0,0])
cube([Coil[OD],SensorThick,3*Coil[LEN]],center=true);
}
}
ShowPegGrid();
if (Layout == "Coil") {
CoilShape();
}
if (Layout == "Mount")
Mount();
if (Layout == "Show") {
Mount();
translate([0,0,(BaseThick + Coil[LEN]/2)])
CoilShape();
}
if (Layout == "Build") {
Mount();
}
I’m pretty sure that chip at 1 o’clock happened while it was clamped in the vise between two cardboard sheets, but I haven’t a clue as how it got that much force. In any event, that shouldn’t affect the results very much, right up until it snaps in two.
Although the current will come from a (rectified) 120 VAC source, the winding will support only as much voltage as comes from the IR drop and inductive reactance, which shouldn’t be more than a fraction of a volt. Nevertheless, I wound the core with transformer tape:
FT82-43 toroid – wrapped
That’s 3M 4161-11 electrical tape (apparently out of production, but perhaps equivalent to 3M’s Super 10 tape) cut into half-foot lengths, slit to 100 mils, and wrapped ever so gently.
The thickest offering from the Big Box o’ Specialty Wire was 24 AWG, so that’s what I wound on it:
FT82-43 toroid – wound
That’s 56 turns, which should convert 2.2 A into 1000 G (enough to max out the Hall effect sensor) and is more in keeping with 24 AWG wire’s 3.5 A current rating.
The insulated core requires just under 1 inch/turn, so figure the length at 56 inch. The wire tables show 26.2 Ω/1000 ft, so the DC winding resistance should be 120 mΩ. My desk meter has 0.1 Ω resolution, which is exactly the difference between shorted probes and probes across the coil: close enough.
The inductance is 170 µH, so the inductive reactance at 120 Hz = 128 mΩ.
The audio quality was terrible, so I tried another bud with a foam windscreen over the hole and a hole punched in the middle of the double-sided white foam tape:
Earbud – foam over vent
The audio remained unintelligible, so I tried an upscale (but still cheap, because surplus) Koss earbud, first without blocking the vents and then with snippets of Kapton tape:
Koss earbud – tape over vent
The earphone has three slits on each side, but only the middle slit has a hole penetrating the case; it must be a stylin’ thing.
That sounded better, so I’ll roll with it. There’s supposed to be a foam cover over the housing, but those things always get grody and fall off; there’s not much point.
As nearly as I can tell, contemporary earbud designs optimize for volume (dBm/mV) and thumpin’ bass, all to the detriment of actual audio quality. Based on numerous samples over the years, there is zero correlation between price (admittedly, on the low end) and audio quality (admittedly, with my crappy hearing).
I own a pair of very nice (and thoroughly obsolete) Shure E2c sound-isolating ear beetles that sound great (even with my crappy hearing), but I’m unwilling to chop them up for the bike headset …