The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Electronics Workbench

Electrical & Electronic gadgets

  • Transformer Parameter Extraction & BH Curve Plotting

    In addition to building a Spice model for a transformer, it’s also important to know whether the core can support the flux generated by the primary winding. This is similar to the inductor problem I mentioned there.

    Small HV transformer with test winding
    Small HV transformer with test winding

    Measure the core’s area and path length. One  can reasonably expect all cores to have hard metric measurements these days: Yankees set those calipers to millimeters and get over it. Besides, you need metric units for everything that follows.

    This transformer has two E-shaped core halves, so the center leg (the one with the windings on it) has twice the area of the outside legs, which are 7 mm thick and 5 mm wide. The central leg is twice that width: 10 mm.

    Figure the stacking factor for a ferrite core is, oh, say, 0.9, making the effective core are:

    Ac = 0.9 · 7 · 10 = 63 mm^2 = 0.63 cm^2

    You need cm^2 here to get gauss later on.

    The core is square, 30 mm on each side. Divide it in half, right down the middle of the center leg, then figure the mean path length around the middle of that rectangle:

    MPL = 2 · (30 – 5) + 2 · (15 – 5) = 70 mm = 7 cm

    Again, you need cm here to get oerstead down below.

    Put a few turns Nt of fine wire around the core, outside all the other windings. This particular transformer has three small imperfections where the varnish / sealant didn’t quite bridge from the bobbin to the outer core legs, so I managed to sneak 20 turns of wire through the holes. Call this the test winding: Nt = 20.

    Incidentally, that’s why you should always buy at least three units from surplus outlets: one to sacrifice, one to use, and one for a spare. I usually get five of anything.

    Connect the transformer primary to a signal generator & oscilloscope Channel 1, connect the test winding to Channel 2, set the channels to maybe 100 mV/div. Set the signal generator for sine wave at maybe 1 kHz, crank on a few hundred millivolts, then read RMS voltages from both channels: Chan 1 = Vp, Chan 2 = Vt.

    Knowing Vp and Vt and the number of turns Nt in the just-added extra winding, find the number of primary turns Np:

    Vp / Vt = Np / Nt

    136 / 40 = Np / 20

    So Np = 68

    Repeat that exercise, stuffing voltage into the transformer’s actual secondary winding (the HV winding):

    4000 / 46 = Ns / 20

    So Ns = 1739

    Comfortingly, the turns ratio works out to what you’d expect from the voltage ratio measured while extracting those pi model parameters:

    N = Np / Ns = 68 / 1739 = 0.039 = 1/25.6

    (You may want the turns ratio as Ns/Np = 25.6. Either will work if you make the appropriate adjustments in the equations.)

    Having measured the primary inductance as about 15 mH, the reactance at 60 Hz is:

    5.6 Ω = 2 · π · 60 ·15e-3

    So it’s reasonable to use a 100 mΩ current sensing resistor.

    Plug a 6 VAC (not DC!) wall wart into the Variac and wire it to the primary through the resistor. Connect the oscilloscope X axis across the resistor, set the gain to maybe 10 mV/division.

    Connect a 220 kΩ resistor in series with a 1 μF non-polarized capacitor, connect that to the normal HV secondary winding, connect the Y axis across the capacitor, set it for maybe 50 mV/div.

    The capacitor voltage is the integral of the secondary voltage, scaled by 1/RC. The RC combination has a time constant of 220 ms, far longer than the 16.7 ms power-line period, so it’s a decent integrator.

    Small HV transformer BH curve
    Small HV transformer BH curve

    Fire up the scope, set it for XY display, turn on the Variac, slowly crank up the voltage, and see something like this on the scope:

    Tweak the offsets so the middle of the curve passes through the center of the graticule, maybe turn on the bandwidth limiting filters, adjust the gains as needed, then measure the point at the upper right at the end of the straightest section in the middle.

    That point, as marked by the cursors, is more or less:

    X = 6.5 mV

    Y = 100 mV

    Now plug all those numbers into the equations and turn the crank…

    The magnetizing force H in oersteads:

    H = (0.4 · π · Np · Ip) / MPL = (0.4 ·3.14 · 68 · Ip) / 7

    H = 12.2 · Ip

    Because the 100 mΩ current sensing resistor scales the current by 10 A/V, the scope X-axis calibration is:

    H = 122 · Vsense

    The core flux density B in gauss (noting that the turns is Ns and converting the peak Vcap voltage to RMS):

    B =(0.707 · Vcap) · (R · C · 10^8) / (Ns · Ac) = Vcap · (220e3 ·1e-6 ·1e8) / (1739 · 0.63)

    B = 14e3 · Vcap

    Finally, at that point where the cursors meet in the upper right part of the curve:

    H = 122 · 6.5e-3 = 0.8 Oe

    B = 14e3 · 0.1 = 1400 G

    Assuming there’s a straight line from the origin to that point (which is close to the truth), the B/H ratio gives the slope of the line and, thus, the core’s permeability:

    µ = B / H = 1400 / 0.8 = 1700

    It’s allegedly a ferrite core, so that’s in the right ballpark given the rough-and-ready approximations in the measurements.

    The answer to the key question comes right off the scope without any fancy math, though. Just beyond the upper-right point the BH curve becomes horizontal, which means the slope is zero, which means the core is saturated, which means the circuit stops working.

    Sooo, the maximum value of the primary current is pretty nearly:

    Imax = 6.5 mV ·10 A/V = 65 mA

    My back of the envelope for the high-voltage DC supply is that a peak of 30 mA will pretty much do the trick, so I’m in good shape. Might be a bit higher during startup, but it’ll sort itself out in short order.

    Whew!

    Correction: I did a total arithmetic faceplant in the previous version. I think this is now correct, but you should always cross-check anything you find on the InterWeb, fer shure!

  • Vanquishing the Power Vampires

    Every gadget comes with its own battery charger wall wart, every single one of which dissipates a watt or two even when it’s not charging. Add ’em up, multiply by $2 per watt per year (check your electric bill; that’s closer than you think!), and realize that you could afford some nice new tools just by unplugging the things between charges.

    But that’s too much trouble and, really, AC outlets aren’t meant for that many mate/unmate cycles. I had one contact fall loose inside a power strip a while ago and the carnage was spectacular.

    What to do?

    Recharging Corner
    Recharging Corner

    Find an otherwise unoccupied flat spot (or build a shelf near an outlet), buy two or three Power Squid adapters (you don’t need surge suppression for this assignment, so get ’em on sale cheap), plug all your chargers into the Squids, and turn everything off with a single switch when you’re not charging anything.

    Bonus: You certainly have some low duty cycle power tools that always have dead batteries when you need them. Plug ’em into the Squid you use most often for other batteries. That way, they’ll get a boost whenever you charge something else, which should keep ’em up to speed.

    I set this tangle up before Power Squids existed, so I just plugged a bunch of Y-splitters into an ordinary power strip. It makes for a fearsome tangle of cords, but at least it’s out of the way atop the never-sufficiently-to-be-damned radon air exchanger in the basement.

  • Finding Transformer Pi Model Parameters

    Given a random transformer, create a decent Spice model… I have to do this rarely enough that I’d better write it down so it’s easy to find. There’s no magic here; it’s all described in ON Semi (nee Motorola) App Note AN-1679/D. See page 4 for the grisly details; I’ve reordered things a bit here.

    Go to the basement lab and measure:

    1. Primary & secondary voltages with a sine-wave input: Vp & Vs.
    2. Primary inductance with secondary open: Lps(open)
    3. Primary inductance with secondary shorted: Lps(short)
    4. DC resistance of primary & secondary: Rp & Rs

    Then return to the Comfy Chair and calculate:

    1. Turns ratio N = Vp/Vs.
    2. Coupling coefficent k = sqrt(1 – Lps(short)/Lps(open))
    3. Primary leakage inductance LI1 = (1 – k) · Lps(open)
    4. Secondary leakage inductance LI2 = (1 – k) · Lps(open) / N^2
    5. Magnetizing inductance Lm = k · Lps(open)

    To wit…

    A quick trip to the basement lab produces these numbers for this small high-voltage transformer:

    Small HV Transformer
    Small HV Transformer
    Primary Secondary
    Voltage 1.08 27.32
    DC resistance 2.03 349
    L other open 15.5 mH 9.68 H
    L other short 45.0 uH 31.3 mH

    You don’t actually need the secondary inductances, but while you have the meter out, you may as well write those down, too. Maybe someday you’ll use the transformer backwards?

    And a session with the calculator produces a Spice model:

    1. N = 1.076 / 27.32 = 0.0394
    2. k = sqrt(1 – 45.0 uH / 15.5 mH) = 0.998
    3. LI1 = (1 – 0.998) ·15.5 mH = 22.5 uH
    4. LI2 = (1 – 0.998) ·15.5 mH / 0.0394^2 = 20.0 mH
    5. Lm = 0.998 ·15.5 mH = 15.48 mH

    Note: the value of (1 – k) is the small difference of two nearly equal numbers, so you wind up with a bunch of significant figures that might not be all that significant. The values of LI1 and LI2 depend strongly on how many figures you carry in the calculations; if you don’t get the same numbers I did, that’s probably why.

    The coupled inductors L1 & L2 form an ideal transformer with a primary inductance L1 chosen so that its reactance is large with respect to anything else. I picked L1 = 1 H here, which is probably excessive.

    The coupling coefficient would be 1.0 if that were allowed in the Spice model, but it’s not, so use 0.9999. Notice that this is not the k you find from the real transformer: it’s as close to 1.0 as you can get. [Update: either I was mistaken about 1.0 not being allowed or something’s changed in a recent release; 1.0 works fine now.]

    Spice transformer pi model
    Spice transformer pi model

    The primary inductance and turns ratio determine the secondary inductance according to:

    Vp / Vs = N = sqrt(L1 / L2)

    So:

    L2 = L1 / (N^2) = 1 / 0.0394^2 = 644 H (!)

    The models for LI1 and LI2 include the DC resistance, so that’s not visible in the schematic.

    And now you can model a high-voltage DC supply…

    Memo to Self: It’s G16821 from Electronic Goldmine

    • Primary on pins 2 & 10
    • HV secondary on pin 8 & flying wire
    • Electrostatic shield on pin 3

    Note: You can compute the turns ratio either way, as long as you keep your wits about you. With any luck, I’ve done so… but always verify what you read!

  • MAX4372 Sense Input Protection: Looks Good to Me

    Current Setpoint Errors - Full Scale
    Current Setpoint Errors – Full Scale

    Contrary to what I’d thought, the MAX4372 circuitry has a simple gain error: it’s about 10% low over the full-scale 300 mA current range.

    A bench supply produces 5 V through an 8 Ω resistor, although the slope of the purple line is more like 7.3 Ω. Close enough.

    The blue line is the current sense voltage, which is exactly the same as the setpoint voltage plus a little PWM noise contributing to the waviness. Unlike the previous solar-powered chart, the bench supply voltage doesn’t drop enough to saturate the current sink, so the result is a nice straight line.

    The red line is the MAX4372 output, which is consistently 10% low right up to the end; I can fix that with simple software scaling. The curve doesn’t flatten out, either, because the common-mode voltage across the sense resistor stays well above the it-stops-working-well limit around 2 V.

    MAX4372 Schottky Protection Hack
    MAX4372 Schottky Protection Hack

    Conspicuous by its absence is any sign of nonlinearity due to the Schottky protection diode across the sense terminal inputs. The full-scale sense voltage is 300 mA x 0.5 Ω = 150 mV, which is sufficiently below the 1N5819 threshold of about 300 mV.

    The picture shows the hack-job mod I applied to the circuit board; basically a cut-and-solder job with 10 Ω SMD resistors and a through-hole 1N5819. Yes, I stacked those two chips to get 5 Ω on the -Sense input; it’s a nice way to get good fixed ratios.

    Despite what the stripes look like, both of those through-hole resistors are 1.0 Ω: brown-black-gold-gold.

    The MAX4372T, the heart of this discussion, is the nearly invisible black rectangle just in front of the diode’s right-hand lead.

    Although I should take a look at the high-value resistor / no diode protection circuitry, this one will suffice for now. It’s worth mentioning that I haven’t managed to burn this MAX4372 out, despite perpetrating much the same indignities on it as I did to the others, so the diode protection really is working.

    Whew!

  • Homebrew Magnetizer-Demagnetizer

    Those “nonmagnetic” tweezers remind me of a story and a useful gadget.

    Two years ago a lightning strike blasted a football-sized chunk of concrete out of the garage door apron, blew out a bunch of networking gear, magnetized every ferrous object in the house (including the nails in the hardwood floors), yet didn’t do any damage to anything else.

    Including us: we were sleeping about 20 feet from the crater. Whew & similar remarks.

    Anyhow, all my machine-shop equipment and tooling was magnetized, too. Suddenly, lathe bits attracted swarf like, well, magnets, endmills sported fur coats, scales snapped onto the workpieces they were supposed to measure, and tweezers picked up screws without any pressure. Not a good situation.

    Homebrew Magnetizer-Demagnetizer
    Homebrew Magnetizer-Demagnetizer

    Fortunately, I’d built a demagnetizer loosely modeled on one described in the Sept/Oct 2000 Home Shop Machinist. It got plenty of power-on minutes after that strike, returning my tools to their normal condition.

    Those flooring nails will be magnetized forever.

    The general idea is pretty simple: recycle the motor from a can opener-class gadget. Strip off all the shading coils and other frippery, saw enough from the pole pieces to position tools in the air gap, plug it straight into the wall outlet, and shake the magnetism right out of your steel.

    It has another nice trick: a relatively low DC voltage that magnetizes your tools. The transformer has a 35 VAC center-tapped secondary, a pair of stud diodes yields about 24 V DC, and that honking big cap whacks the bumps off the full-wave rectified DC waveform.

    Absolutely nothing is critical, but the original article suggests measuring the AC current into the motor winding, then choosing a DC voltage to force that current (Ohm’s Law: E=IR!) through the coil’s DC resistance. I picked a transformer that was close enough to work; anything in the 10-20 VAC range would probably be fine, too.

    The small DPDT toggle switch routes either AC or DC to the winding. If I were doing this again, I’d use a bigger switch, but that’s what I had in the junk box at the time.

    Use a momentary pushbutton for the main power switch, as you do not want this thing on for more than a few seconds. The motor windings get warm from the abuse; it was designed to run with the back EMF from the now-missing rotor, making the currents far higher than the design spec. Use fairly husky wire, not doorbell stuff, inside the box.

    I used 100% junk-box parts for this project and bolted everything to the outside of a recycled aluminum box because the inside was pretty crowded with that husky wiring.

    Demagnetizing: feel the buzz, then pull the tool a goodly distance from the pole pieces before you release the pushbutton.

    Magnetizing: stroke the tool over one of the pole pieces, repeat as needed.

    That should handle any residual magnetism in those tweezers…

  • Nonmagnetic Tweezers: Don’t Believe The Hype

    A small package of 6000 SMD resistors just arrived from a Hong Kong eBay seller. It showed up promptly despite traveling halfway around the world, had neat packaging, and I’ll give ’em good feedback.

    Also included was a free needle-tip tweezers, just exactly what you need for plucking those little ceramic rectangles from their packages. I  already have a bunch of needle-tip tweezers in my rack, but you can never have too many tools and this one won’t go to waste.

    Gooi TS-11 tweezers
    Gooi TS-11 tweezers

    The package has what appears to be comprehensive instructions in both Chinese and Japanese (to my untrained eyes, anyway). Not much in English, other than that Anti-magnetic, anti-acid and non-corrosive Stainless Steel line; perhaps this isn’t the export model. Indeed, it lacks the obligatory country-of-origin labeling, but, given where the package came from, one may reasonably assume the usual Chinese origin.

    The tweezers are (almost illegibly) stamped STAINLESS NON-MAGNETIC and bear a tidy sticker: gooi TS-11 ANTIMAGNETIC.

    Gooi TS-11 Antimagnetic sticker
    Gooi TS-11 Antimagnetic sticker

    The build quality and surface finish are, um, a bit rough, but Gooi seems really proud of their non/anti-magnetic properties.

    Needless to say, a magnet sticks firmly…

    I have no convenient way to test their anti-acid (whatever that is) and non-corrosive properties, but I’m betting these suckers are plain old Chinese mild steel, made from recycled US scrap. Perhaps the previous iteration was stainless and we’re stepping down the cost-saving ladder? If they would just change the packaging to match reality, that would be fine with me.

    [Insert standard observations about Chinese quality control here.]

    Y’know, come to think of it, I’m sort of wondering about those 6000 SMD resistors. With any luck they’ll actually work when I get around to using them. If not, I suppose it serves me right for buying direct from Hong Kong via eBay, eh?

    And, yes, I know some stainless steel is magnetic.

  • MAX4372 Sense Input Protection: The Story Continues

    Measured vs setpoint currents
    Measured vs setpoint currents

    As noted here, there’s a difference between the current setpoint (controlled by the PWM analog outputs) and the measured values. As it turns out, there’s a better way to look at those datapoints.

    This is a graph of measured current against the setpoints. Looks pretty good to me, apart from a teensy offset error. There really isn’t much in the way of a gain error over the entire range.

    Having had a bit of time to think this over, the measured current-sink current should generally be numerically equal to the setpoint value, simply because there’s an external op-amp forcing that to be true. The twiddlepot adjusting the op-amp gain doesn’t enter into this, because the loop forces that voltage to match the PWM output. So, duh, the purple line should be spot on, at least up to the point where the sink transistor saturates.

    What’s more interesting is that, over this range, the MAX4372 output is also spot on, which is not obvious from the previous chart. It flattens out when the common-mode voltage at the sense resistor drops below a volt, more or less, which is what the datasheet leads you to believe.

    The datapoints comes from the same panel on a different day, so the points don’t quite line up if you’re comparing them. The brown solar panel voltage curve flattens out when the current sink transistor saturates, but the panel can continue to supply increasing current into a dead short, so the current continues to rise for a bit.

    After I get the Circuit Cellar column laid to rest, I gotta figure all this out from first principles, then run the current up to 300 mA from the dreaded bench supply.

    But the short answer seems to be that the Schottky protection circuitry doesn’t have much effect up through 75 mV. Which seems reasonable, come to think of it.