Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
This is another step along the way to getting our daughter’s radio firmly mounted to her Tour Easy, not tucked into one of the panniers. The general idea is to use a water bottle holder for the radio, with a seat wedge pack from an upright bike cushioning the radio. The secret ingredient is a circumferential clamp that mounts the holder to the lower rail of the bike’s seat frame.
This clamp is basically the same as the ones on our bikes, but I doodled up a sketch with some illegible dimensions that almost matches the actual clamp; we may both find it useful the next time.
Clamp layout sketch
Machining the clamp is straightforward: bandsaw a block of about the right size, square it up in the mill, helix-mill the clamp hole …
Helix-milling the clamp hole
Drill the clearance and tapping holes for the screw, bandsaw it in half, clean up the cut edges …
Finished clamp parts
Obviously, I didn’t put those nice bevels on the front side.
Both previous water bottle holders required a spreader plate between the clamp screws and the holder’s screws, but this time the holder had a nice aluminum plate all by itself. It just fit on the Sherline and a bit of manual CNC center-drilled the curved plate and poked a jobber-length drill through the holes …
Drilling holder for clamp screws
And then it fit perfectly on the bike …
Mounted holder
A side view …
Mounted holder – side view
Now, to find a wedge pack big enough for the HT and small enough to fit in the holder!
I favor a small cylindrical earbud with a good seal inside my ear for use with the amateur radio on my bike. These things come with back vents that allegedly improve their bass response; that’s not a concern for communications-grade audio and, worse, the vent produces a tremendous amount of wind noise.
Earbud with back vent
The solution is straightforward: put some tape over the vent!
Kapton tape over vent
I used Kapton tape, because I have it, but in point of fact the snippet of duct tape I applied on the first ride (having forgotten to do it on the bench) worked just fine. A drop of epoxy would be fine, too, if you were a bit careful about not letting it ooze down inside the case while it cured.
Despite the fancy appearance, this is a random pick from the assortment of earbuds I’ve bought at $10 or less over the last few years. According to my golden-eared assistant, the audio quality varies dramatically among the assortment, but they all work reasonably well between 300-3000 Hz. I suspect the insanely cheap ones on eBay are essentially the same things, although IMO they’re intended to collect large quantities of high positive ratings: caveat emptor.
Speaking of caveats, insert the usual safety caveats here.
Note that we’re using one earbud for tactical comm, not boppin’ to the music, and the audio level is low enough we (well, I) can’t hear diddly at speeds over 15 mph. Your jurisdiction may prohibit “headphones” or “earphones” or some such, so behave accordingly.
All the officers I’ve met think the radios are a great idea, if that means anything.
This is a prototype for the case that will eventually hold a TinyTrak3 GPS-to-APRS encoder, along with a homebrew circuit board that combines the APRS data with voice from the helmet mic. The case slides into the back of our ICOM IC-Z1A and W-32A HTs, replacing the battery case.
It’s the most complex CNC machining I’ve done so far and I figured that was the perfect reason to carve up a block of machinable wax that’s been sitting on the shelf for far too long.
The exterior view shows why you use wax for the first pass… the ugly gash came from not retracting the end mill before the final G30, combined with trying to clamp a bendy shell in the vise. That was, of course, the final operation on that part!
Machinable wax case – exterior
The inside view shows the TinyTrak serial connector cutout (left half), as well as the shoulder to support the audio interface circuit board (right half). The two holes at the upper-right are 4-40 clearance for screws that serve as contacts for the HT’s battery connection and hold the board in place.
Machinable wax case – interior
These survived far too many setups and takedowns as I figured out how to get all the cuts laid out and in what sequence to do everything. Now that I know a bit more about what to do, the plastic version should come out better; I’m sure I’ll also make better mistakes.
This is my latest attempt to come up with a robust electret mic capsule mount for our bike helmets.
The general idea is to put the capsule in a small brass tube (from my box o’ random cutoffs) soldered to the end of a copper-wire boom lashed to the helmet. The tube provides alignment and physical protection, the boom doesn’t pose a poking hazard, and some decent electrical tape secures the mic cable to the boom.
The mic capsule has back vents that allegedly provide ambient noise reduction, so the brass tube must be open on both ends. This does not implement the “waterproof” part of the spec; I still haven’t figured that out yet.
I annealed a length of 12 AWG copper wire to make it easy to bend around the helmet’s contours; two passes with a propane torch to red heat does the deed. It will work-harden quickly and maintain its shape after that.
AWG 12 wire is 0.080 inches in diameter, close enough to 2 mm that I poked a hole in the brass tubing with a 2 mm end mill. Filed the end of the wire flat, stuffed it in the hole, fluxed the joint, applied the big soldering gun to the wire, flowed some silver solder, and it’s all good. Fairly obviously, this meets my “the bigger the blob, the better the job” soldering criterion…
Mic rear
The capsule has two layers of Kapton tape wrapped around it to snug up the fit, although I doubt that insulating it from the brass tube makes any difference.
Mic front
The windscreen is a ball snipped from an open-cell acoustic foam sound deadening panel that has contributed myriad mic windscreens over the years. The mic fits into a slit cut with an X-acto knife; no finesse required. The nylon cable tie will disintegrate from sun exposure at about the same time the foam rots away, which takes about two years.
Mic foam windscreen ball
Despite what you might think, the helmet attachment is dramatically less butt-ugly than in years gone by…
Boom-to-helmet detail
The trick is lashing the bent portion of the boom to the helmet, which prevents the entire boom from rotating around its long axis. That keeps the mic aimed directly at your mouth, regardless of how you bend the boom.
The earbud wire loops around the mic boom a few times, with the first loop over the boom to take advantage of its rounded surface. With any luck, that will delay the inevitable fatigue failure. Mary favors old-style cylindrical earbuds, rather than newer flat or round ones.
The USB cable (this is not, repeat not a USB headset) gets lashed to various parts of the helmet foam and routed out to the middle of the back, with the male connector a few inches below the helmet. That puts the cable over the back of the Tour Easy’s seat frame, leaving the bulk of the cable hanging behind the seat. The cable length from the female connector to the radio interface is a delicate trade off between being
Long enough to let you stand up and
Short enough to stay out of the rear wheel.
This vertiginous shot looks down at the helmet hanging on the seat of Mary’s bike. Yup, that’s her bright new homebrew seat cover to the upper left…
I’m in the process of reworking the interface box between the amateur radio HTs on our bikes and our helmet-mounted earbud & mic lashup. Mary needed a new helmet before I got the new interface ready, soooo there’s an adapter cable in the middle.
This time around, the helmet cable uses a male USB-A connector, rather than a female 6-pin Mini-DIN PS/2 keyboard connector. Either one is cheap & readily available as assembled cables, which gets me out of soldering teeny little connector pins. These days, though, USB cables are more common.
The motivation for a non-latching, low-extraction-force connector at the helmet is that when (not if) you drop the bike, the helmet doesn’t tie your head to the bike and snap your spine. Falls on a recumbent are much less exciting than on an upright bike, but you still want the bike to go that-a-way while you go this-a-way. Been there, done that.
The old helmet cable connector: female 6-pin mini-DIN. The wire color code is not standardized. Viewed from rear of female connector or the front of the male connector, with the key slot up:
ear com - Gn 5 |_| 6 K - ear hot
mic com - Or 3 key 4 Y - mic hot
gnd - Bn 1 2 R - gnd
The new helmet cable connector: male USB-A. Mercifully, they standardized the wire colors. Looking at the front of the male USB-A connector with the tab down and the contacts up, the pins are 4 3 2 1:
1 – R – ear hot
2 – W – mic hot
3 – G – mic com
4 – K – ear com
The female USB-A connector is exactly the same.
That arrangement should produce the proper twisted pairs in a USB 2.0 cable, but all the USB cables I’ve seen so far lay all four wires in a common twist inside the shield. Maybe it’s the cheap junk I buy, huh?
It’s worthwhile to scribble some color in the background of the trident USB symbol so it’s easier to mate the connectors.
Easy-align USB connectors
Memo to Self: verify the connections & proper operation before shrinking the tubing!
Quite a while ago, I built this slab mount to hold an amateur radio antenna on our daughter’s Tour Easy. It worked fine until the bike blew over and whacked the antenna whip against something solid, at which point the mast cracked.
The antenna screws into an ordinary panel-mount UHF connector secured to the bottom of the slab, with a hole through the slab just large enough to accept the antenna mast. That put all the mechanical stress on the slab, not the connector.
Modified antenna mounting plate
Alas, the new antenna had a slightly different mast outside diameter, so I machined a new adapter to clamp the connector atop the slab. The antenna screws down into the adapter against a brass washer, again keeping the strain on the fitting.
I recently found the commercial mobile antenna cable that I’d been meaning to use on her bike, which required Yet Another Modification to that slab. It turns out that the UHF connector on the cable expects to be secured to sheet metal found in a car body, rather than a half-inch aluminum plate: the threads aren’t long enough!
So I machined circular recesses on the top and bottom to hold the mounting nut and washer, respectively, with 2 mm of aluminum remaining in the middle of the slab.
Milling top recess
The recesses are just fractionally larger than the nut & washer, so most of the stress gets transmitted directly to the slab. Even in the high-vibration bicycle environment, I think there’s enough meat in there to prevent fatigue fractures.
Milling bottom recess
I recycled a G-Code routine I’d written to chew out circular recesses. It does a bit of gratuitous (for this application, anyway) spiraling in toward the center, but got the job done without my having to think too much.
The bottom view shows the washer in action. The recess is deep enough that the cable just barely clears the slab.
Modified mounting plate – bottom
The top view shows the recessed mounting nut. The nut has an O-ring around the connector threads, but the water will probably drain out through the four through-holes left over from the old panel-mount connector.
Modified mounting plate
I turned the top nut down as far as I could with a wrench & (ugh) needle-nose pliers, then tightened the bottom nut about 1/3 turns with a wrench.
You’re not supposed to notice the crispy edges on the PVC bushing holding the reflector to the antenna mast. The high setting on that heat gun is a real toaster…
Here’s the status of the AA NiMH packs I’ve been using with the radios on our bikes, plus three packs I made up last year and have been keeping on the desk to measure their long-term storage characteristics. Click for more detail.
Bike Radio Pack Status – 2010-03
The “Tenergy 09 x” packs are new & unused with, frankly, disappointing capacity of about half their 2.6 Ah rating. That’s not much better than the used Tenergy packs (T9x and RTU x), which is either a Good Thing (they have good long-term stability) or a Bad Thing (they’re grossly over-rated to begin with).
The two Duracell packs are far better than any of the Tenergy packs.
The three 6-cell packs along the bottom are fading fast.
The previous test runs are there, albeit with a 1 A discharge.
This season I’ll use some Li-Ion packs that weigh twice as much with three times the capacity… plus a built-in charge gauge, pessimistic though it may be.
The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning 