Archive for category Amateur Radio
Two of the external Li-Ion battery packs I’m using with the bike radios seemed to fail quickly after being charged, so I sawed them open to check the state of the cells. This time I used the fine-tooth cutoff blades, rather than a coarse slitting saw:
As before, a 2 mm depth-of-cut, done 0.25 mm per pass after the first millimeter, seems about right. I didn’t saw the front of the case near the jack, which proved to be a mistake; the interlocked case halves need cutting.
No cell trouble found, which leads me to suspect an intermittent short in the battery-to-radio cable that trips the battery protection circuit. The spare cables went into hiding during the shop cleanout, so I can’t swap in a known-good cable just yet; of course, the existing cable behaves perfectly on the bench. The suspect cable is now on my bike and, if the problem follows the cable, further surgery will be in order.
For the record, the insides look like this:
The cell label seems to show a 2004 date code:
Given that I got them on closeout in early 2010, it definitely isn’t 2014.
Unlike some of the other cheap batteries around here, they’ve been spectacularly successful!
The object of soldering all 40 wires in the 5 m hank of ribbon cable in series is to build a 40 turn loop antenna to receive LF radio signals like WWVB at 60 kHz. The antenna, being basically a big coil of wire, will have an inductance that depends on its layout, so putting a capacitor in parallel turns it into a resonant tank circuit. Given a particular layout (and, thus, an inductance), you can choose the capacitor to make the antenna resonant at whatever frequency you need (within reason).
With the joints soldered & reinforced with epoxy, the inductance across all 40 turns:
- 535 µH – rolled into a compact bundle
- 6.66 mH – vaguely circular loop on the concrete floor
- 5.50 mH – lumpy rectangle on the concrete floor
Back in a slightly different circular layout on the floor:
- 6.8 mH – across all 40 turns, as above
- 2.0 mH – across either set of 20 turns from the center tap
Given that inductance varies as the square of the number of turns, you’d expect a factor of four between those two inductances, but that’s not how it worked out.
Hanging the loop from a pair of screws in the floor joists to make a droopy rectangle-oid shape and driving it from a 600 Ω signal generator through a 10 kΩ resistor, it’s self-resonant at 213 kHz. Repeating that with a 470 kΩ resistor drops the resonance to 210 kHz, which isn’t different enough to notice and surely has more to do with my moving the loop while dinking with resistors.
Adding parallel capacitance (measured with an LCR meter, just to be sure) changes the resonance thusly:
- 9.9 nF → 20 kHz
- 900 pF → 64 kHz
- 400 pF → 87 kHz
- 250 pF → 108 kHz
- none → 213 kHz
Because the resonant frequency varies inversely as the square root of the capacitance, halving the resonant frequency means you’ve increased the capacitance by a factor of four. Because 250 pF halves the frequency (mostly kinda sorta close enough), the loop’s stray capacitance must be about 1/3 of that: 83 pF.
Yeah, 1/3, not 1/4: the additional capacitance adds to the stray capacitance, so it goes from 83 pF to 250 + 83 pF = 333 pF, which is four times 83 pF.
(If that sound familiar, it’s similar to the resonant snubber calculation.)
The self-resonant frequency of 213 kHz and the 83 pF stray capacitance determines the loop inductance:
L = 1/((2π · 213 kHz)^2 · 83 pF) = 6.9 mH
Pretty close to the measured value from the floor, I’d say.
To resonate the antenna at 60 kHz, the total capacitance must be:
60 kHz = 1/(2π · sqrt(6.9 mH · C)) → C = 1050 pF
Which means an additional 1050 – 83 = 970-ish pF should do the trick, which is about what you’d expect from the 64 kHz resonance with the 900 pF cap above. I paralleled pairs of caps until it resonated at 59.9 kHz.
The -3 dB points (voltage = 1/sqrt(2) down from the peak) turned out to be 58.1 and 60.1 kHz, so my kludged caps are slightly too large or, once again, I nudged the loop.
Figuring Q = (center frequency) / bandwidth = 59.1 / 2 = 30, which works out close enough to Q = X / R = 2600 / 80 = 33 to be satisfying. Using standard 26-ish AWG ribbon cable, rather than crappy 31-ish AWG eBay junk, would double the conductor area, halve the series resistance, and double the Q. Faced with that much resistance, I’m not sure better caps would make any difference.
Attaching the spectrum analyzer through a 470 Ω resistor to reduce the load:
I’d love to believe that big peak over on the left at 57.1 kHz is WWVB, but it’s not.
What’s more important: the broad hump between 56 and 62 kHz, where the increased amount of background hash suggests the antenna really is resonant, with a center frequency around 59 kHz. The -3 dB points might be 57 and 61 kHz, but at 10 dB/div with 5 dB of hash, I’d be kidding myself.
Dang, I love it when the numbers work out!
It’s faintly possible the spectrum analyzer calibration is off by 2.5 kHz at the low end of its range. The internal 300 MHz reference shows 299.999925 and it puts FM stations where they should be, but the former could be self-referential error and the latter lacks enough resolution to be comforting. I must fire up the GPS frequency reference, let it settle for a few days, see whether it produces 10.000000 MHz like it should, then try again.
The original measurements:
Given five meters of 40 conductor ribbon cable, the object is to make a 40 turn five foot diameter loop antenna by soldering the ends together with a slight offset. After squaring off, marking, and taping the cable ends, I stripped the wires:
Twirling those little snippets before pulling them off produced nicely twisted wire ends with
no few loose strands. Separate the individual wires, wrap with transformer tape to prevent further separation, run a flux pen along the wire ends, tin with solder, repeat on the far end of the cable.
Tape one end to the ceramic tile. Align the other end with a one-wire lateral offset and the stripped sections overlapping, then tape it down. Slide a paper strip between the ends, passing under every other wire, to separate the top pairs from the bottom pairs, then tape the strip in place:
Grab each left wire with a needle point tweezer, forcibly align with the corresponding right wire, touch with the iron, iterate:
The red wire trailing off to the left will become the center tap.
Slide a strip of the obligatory Kapton tape underneath the finished joints, slobber on enough clear epoxy to bond the insulation on both sides of the joints into a solid mass, squish another strip atop the epoxy, smooth down, wait for curing.
Untape from the tile, flip, re-tape, solder the bottom joints similarly, add Kapton / epoxy / Kapton, and that’s that:
Prudence dictates checking for end-to-end continuity after you finish soldering and before you do the Kapton + epoxy thing, which is where I discovered I had 80 Ω of distributed resistance along 200 meters of cable. A quick check showed 40 Ω at the center tap and 20 Ω at the quarters (the black wires on the left mark those points), so it wasn’t a really crappy joint somewhere in the middle.
The joint and its dangly wires cry out for a 3D printed stiffener which shall remain on the to-do list until I see how the loop tunes up.
What’s wrong with this picture? (clicky for more dots)
Here’s the description, slightly reformatted for clarity:
New 5m IDC Standard 40 WAY 1.8” Multi-Color Flat Ribbon Cable Wire Connector
Type: IDC standard.
10 colors, 4 group, total 40 pcs cables per lot
5 meter per lot.
width: 4.7 cm / 1.8 inch
Package content: 5M Flat Color Ribbon Cable
If you divide the 1.8 inch cable width by its 40 conductors, you find the wires lie on a 45 mil pitch. If you were expecting this “IDC standard” cable to fit in standard insulation displacement cable connectors with a 50 mil pitch, you’d be sorely disappointed. You can get metric ribbon cable with a 1 mm = 39 mil pitch, but this ain’t that, either.
Here’s what an individual eBay wire (black jacket) looks like, compared to a wire from a standard ribbon cable (red jacket):
A closer look at the strands making up the wires:
As nearly as I can measure with my trusty caliper, the eBay ribbon cable has wire slightly smaller than 30 AWG, made up of seven 40 AWG strands, as opposed to standard 26 AWG wire made of seven 34 AWG strands. The good stuff might be 28 AWG / 7×36 AWG, but I was unwilling to break out the micrometer for more resolution.
I’d like to say I noticed that before buying the cable, but it came to light when I measured the total resistance of the whole cable: 80 Ω seemed rather high for 200 meters of 26 AWG wire. The wire tables say that’s about right for 31 AWG copper, though.
Changing the AWG number by three changes the conductor area by a factor of two, so you’re getting less than half the copper you expected. Bonus: it won’t fit any IDC connectors you have on the shelf, either.
Turns out a recent QEX article suggested building an LF loop antenna from a ribbon cable, so I was soldering all the conductors in series, rather than using connectors, and it should work reasonably well despite its higher DC resistance.
Long ago, Mary picked out a PTT switch with a raised, square post that provided a distinct shape and positive tactile feedback:
Time passes, she dinged her thumb in the garden, and asked for a more rounded button. I have some switches with rounded caps, but replacing the existing switch looked a lot like work, sooooo:
As with all small objects, building them four at a time gives the plastic in each one time to cool before slapping the next layer on top:
The hole in the cap is 0.2 mm oversize, which results in a snug press fit on the small ridges barely visible around the post in the first image:
Rather than compute the chord covering the surface, I just resized a sphere to twice the desired dome height (picked as 6 threads, just for convenience) and plunked it atop a cylinder. Remember to expand the sphere diameter by 1/cos(180/sides) to make it match the cylinder and force both to have the same number of sides.
If it falls off, I have three backups.
The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:
Given a point source of audio (or RF, for that matter) that’s far enough away to produce more-or-less plane wavefronts, the range difference between two microphones (or ears) is:
ΔR = (mic separation) x sin Θ
The angle lies between the perpendicular to the line from the midpoint between the mics counterclockwise to the source source: + for sounds to your left, – for sounds to your right. That’s the trig convention for angular measurement with 0° directly ahead, not the compass convention, but you can argue for either sign if you keep track of what’s going on.
The time delay between the mics, given c = speed of sound:
ΔT = ΔR / c
For microphones 300 mm apart and c = 344 m/s:
ΔT = 872 µs = 0.3 m / 344 m/s
If you delay the sound from the mic closest to the source by that amount, then add the mic signals, you get a monaural result that emphasizes, at least a little bit, sounds from that source in relation to all other sounds.
In principle, you could find the angle by listening for the loudest sound, but that’s a fool’s game.
There’s an obvious symmetry for a source on the same side, at the same angle, toward the rear.
A GNU Radio data flow diagram that lets you set the angle and listen to / watch the results:
The original doodles show it takes me a while to work around to the answer:
For a variety of reasons that aren’t relevant here, I must dramatically reduce the amount of stuff in the Basement Laboratory / Machine Shop / Warehouse.
If you (or someone you know) has / is starting / will start a makerspace or similar organization, here’s an opportunity to go from zero to hero with a huge infusion of tools / instruments / make-froms / raw material / gadgets / surplus gear.
Think of it as a Makerspace Starter Kit: everything you need in one acquisition.
You’ve seen much of the stuff in these blog posts during the past five years, although I tightly crop the photos for reasons that should be obvious when you consider the backgrounds.
A few glimpses, carefully chosen to make the situation look much tidier than it really is:
I’m not a hoarder, but I can look right over the fence into that territory…
I want to donate the whole collection to an organization that can figure out how to value it and let me write it off. Failing that, I’m willing to sell the whole collection to someone who will move it out and enjoy it / put it to good use / part it out / hoard it.
We can quibble over the value, which surely lies between scrap metal and filet mignon.
As nearly as I can estimate from our last two moves, I have 6±2 short tons of stuff:
- Metal shop: old South Bend lathe / vertical mill-drill / bandsaw / hand tools / arbor press
- Cabinets / shelves loaded with cutters / tools / micrometers / calipers / whatever
- Gas & electric welding equipment, gas foundry furnace
- Walls / bins / drawers of fasteners / wire nuts / plumbing fittings / pipe clamps / you-name-its
- Bookshelves of references / magazines / databooks; I’ll keep at most one set of the magazines with my columns
- Ham radio equipment / antennas / cables
- Radial saw, blades, clamps, tooling, and a lumber / plywood stockpile
- Labeled boxes of make-froms on steel shelving; you get the shelves, the boxes, and their contents.
- Solvents, chemicals, metals, minerals, elements, etc.
- Electronic / optical / mechanical surplus & doodads
- Stockpiles of metal rods / pipes / beams / flanges / sheets / scrap parts
- Tools & toys & treasures beyond your wildest imagination
When we left Raleigh, the moving company estimator observed “This will be like moving a Home Depot!”
You must take everything, which means you must have the ability & equipment to handle 6±2 tons of stuff in relatively small, rather heavy, not easily stackable lumps. You’ll need 1000+ square feet of space with at least a seven-foot ceiling on your end to unload the truck(s) and create a solid block of stuff with skinny aisles between the shelves. This is not a quick afternoon trip for you, your BFF, a pickup truck, and a storage unit.
I plan to keep the Sherline, the M2 3D printer, various small tools, some hardware / parts / stock, most of the electronic instruments (antique-ish, at best) and components, plus odds and ends. I’ll extract or clearly mark those items, leaving your team to move everything else without (too many) on-the-fly decisions.
I can provide photos and descriptions, but, realistically, you should evaluate the situation in person.
Although we’re not planning to move in the near future, if you’re thinking of moving into the Mid Hudson Valley and always wanted a house with a ready-to-run Basement Shop, we can probably work something out. Note: all of the online real estate descriptions, including Zillow, seem confused, as the two houses on our two-acre property contain the total square footage / rooms / baths / whatever. Contact us for the Ground Truth after you’ve contemplated the satellite view.
As the saying goes, “Serious inquiries only.”