The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Electronics Workbench

Electrical & Electronic gadgets

  • Inductor Saturation

    While writing a column for Circuit Cellar, I managed to utterly botch the choice of a boost converter inductor. The inductor (the rightmost one in the lineup) was a common-mode choke from a power supply, so I figured it had enough meat for 300 mA of boost current.

    Salvaged Inductors
    Salvaged Inductors

    Bzzzzt! Wrong choice!

    So it’s time to document how to measure this stuff. The intent is to plot a BH curve: core flux density B versus magnetizing force H.

    Quick inductor tutorial using (ptooie) Imperial units and avoiding Greek letters for simplicity:

    Magnetomotive force mmf = 0.4 * pi * (N = turns) * (I = current)

    induced voltage e = – N * (d phi / d t) * (10^-8) where phi = flux linking the N turns

    Magnetizing force H = mmf / (MPL = mean path length around core)

    Flux density B = phi / (Ac = effective core area)

    also B = (mu = permeability) * H

    You might think that B & H are lashed linearly together, but mu is most savagely nonlinear. It depends on H, temperature, core material, and a bunch of other stuff you don’t want to know about. So, by and large, plotting B against H shows you how mu varies: it’s the slope of the curve at any point. Vertical slope = high mu (good), horizontal slope = zero mu (bad).

    Stirring all that together, you get the Fundamental Transformer Equation:

    E in RMS volts = 4 * F * f * N * Ac * B * (10^-8)

    F = form factor = rms / average

    • sine = 1.11
    • bipolar square = 1.00
    • unipolar square = 1.41

    So…

    • H is proportional to mmf and thus to primary current
    • B is proportional to phi and thus the integral of secondary voltage

    Sounds scary, but primary current & secondary voltage are easy to measure.

    Inductor measurement test setup
    Inductor measurement test setup

    The basic lashup goes a little something like this: stick a sampling resistor in the primary, run the secondary through an RC integrator, feed both into an oscilloscope that can do XY plotting, drive the primary from a Variac, turn the knob, and watch at the results. You might want a bit more finesse than this, but, eh, it works.

    The primary voltage will be relatively low, so plug a 12 VAC wall wart into the Variac. This gives you galvanic isolation from the power line, finer control over the primary voltage (more of a full turn on the Variac), and will prevent you from killing yourself or burning out your basement laboratory. You want a fairly husky wart if you’re measuring husky inductors. Remember: this is an AC measurement, so you want an AC wall wart, not one with a nice filtered DC output.

    The resistance of the sampling resistor should be much less than the inductive reactance of the coil. We’ll measure it at 60 Hz because that’s easy, so for a coil of inductance L, the reactance at 60 Hz is 2 * pi * 60 * L. That simplifies to 377 * L, so a 1 mH coil has about 400 m-ohm reactance. I have a nearly infinite stash of 100 m-ohm sandbox power resistors, so that’s what we’ll use; you’d want less, but this is quick & easy.

    If the inductor doesn’t have a secondary, poke some magnet wire through the core. Use some simple number of turns and remember that number, just in case you want to calibrate the results.

    The time constant of the RC integrator must be a lot bigger than the frequency you’re integrating. For a 60 Hz signal, you want maybe a 6 Hz integrator: 60 Hz -> 17 ms, so pick 200 ms. Having a nice 1 uF film cap in my heap, the resistor works out to (200×10^-3) / (1×10^-6) = 200 k. Anything in that range will work fine. A larger cap gives you a smaller resistor and more signal to the scope.

    Wired it up about like that and here’s what happens for the inductor I picked

    BH curve for Bel 0571-0033-02 choke
    BH curve for Bel 0571-0033-02 choke (rightmost)

    The calibration of H is 100 mV / amp (from the 100 m-ohm resistor) and the scope display is thus 2 A/div. The calibration for B is whatever the secondary winding provides, scaled by 1/RC from the integrator.

    For this coil, the value of mu is essentially infinite (B rises vertically for changes in H), but the core saturates at very small values of H (and thus primary current). It was a common-mode choke for a power supply, so that’s exactly what you want: high inductance for very small currents and no need for much in the way of core flux because the opposing line currents in the windings cancel.

    I harvested some inductors from a bunch of dead power supplies in my heap and measured them similarly, using an existing winding as the secondary wherever possible. The results look like this:

    BH curve for for coil with blue dot
    BH curve for for coil with blue dot (3rd left)
    BH curve for 40580-R01 coil
    BH curve for 40580-R01 coil (2nd left)
    BH curve forLC0263-A coil
    BH curve for LC0263-A coil (leftmost)

    The area inside the loop is proportional to the core power loss, so it’s obvious that some inductors are better than others.

    If you’re going to do this for real, you’ll want actual calibrations for both axes. You can work the numbers out from the equations and read real values for both B and H directly from the ‘scope graticule. Pretty slick, mmm?

    The primary current can get surprisingly high, so turn the Variac knob up, make your measurement, and turn it back down again. The sampling resistor and the core can get scary hot if you let ’em cook while pondering the ‘scope display. A storage scope is most helpful, which comes pretty much for free with digital scopes these days.

    I wrote about all this in more detail in the context of a resistance soldering unit in my February 08 Circuit Cellar column, so I should have known better.

    Memo to self: measure first, write later.

    And remember to turn off the WordPress Smiley option (Dashboard → Settings → Writing) so equations don’t get cutsy artwork instead of numbers. Feh!

  • Rehabilitating an Old Variac

    Variac Rotor Before Fixup
    Variac Rotor Before Fixup
    Variac Brush Holder and Staking
    Variac Brush Holder and Staking
    Variac Rotor After Fixup
    Variac Rotor After Fixup

    So I’ve had this ancient 5 A Variac on the heap for far too long, finally came up with an actual application, and discovered that not only was the line cord shot, it basically didn’t work.

    Of course, I had to replace the cord & outlet before I discovered that it didn’t work…

    The classic Variac failure happens when the carbon brush wears down to nothing, at which point the holder scrapes on the windings and the whole thing burns out. In this case, the brush still had 3/16″ left, but the sliding holder was firmly corroded in place.

    I soaked it in PB’laster, rapped it all over with a small drift punch, and managed to drive the holder out. In the process, the brass sleeve around the brush holder came out, putting the entire problem on the bench.

    The rotor had two brass rivets securing the brush contact bar (the part that’s connected to the actual brush holder by a length of copper braid) that would not come out, nohow. After I broke one off (the first picture), I found that they were swaged over on the bottom, so I broke the other one off and punched both stubs out.

    I spent a few hours wearing a headband magnifier and gently filing everything to a pair of slip fits: brush holder into sleeve, sleeve into rotor. The rotor is aluminum, so I applied a liberal dose of oxidation inhibitor, slipped the sleeve in place, and staked that sucker down.

    Which meant I spent another half hour filing the brush holder to restore the slip fit…

    Turned out that the rivets were 40 mils, the holes were 43, and 00-90 machine screws are 43.5. I don’t have a 00-90 tap (mostly because I know I’d break it by looking hard at it), so I just ran a screw into the hole and formed the threads. They must have 10% engagement, tops, but this isn’t a high-stress application.

    This is, I think, the first time I’ve ever used those 00-90 screws and nuts. The washers are 0-80 so they reach over the brush contact bar far enough to hold it in place. Dang, those things are small!

    The main conduction path seems to be through a brass slip contact, into the aluminum rotor, through the brass sleeve, and into the carbon brush. I’m not convinced the rivets / screws conduct any appreciable amount of current to the contact bar and through the braid, but I shined up the contact patches anyway.

    Put it all back together, fired it up, and it worked!

    Ought to be good for the next half-century, at least…

  • Fuse Failure

    Burned Fuse
    Burned Fuse

    The electric water heater in the rental house stopped working. I found this in the fusebox.

    Looks like it’d been simmering for a while!

    Fuses never (uh, rarely) fail as shorts, but sometimes they don’t fail open. The block and fuse box don’t look overheated and seem to be OK, but, sheesh…

  • Laying On of Hands: Trackball Repair

    I have a pair of trackballs, one on each side of the keyboard, in the interest of dividing the strain on my wrists. The right-hand trackball, a Logitech Cordless Optical Trackman, suddenly stopped working one afternoon: the ball stops moving the pointer, the half-dozen buttons stop selecting things, the scroll wheel stops scrolling.

    I poke the resync buttons, replace the batteries, generally futz around, and discover that it’s actually working fine, but with an RF range measured in inches rather than feet. Not good; it’s on a pull-out shelf in the desk leg well and there’s no place for the receiver within a few inches. Besides, it’s supposed to work better than that.

    So I take the trackball apart, admire all the little bitty parts, reseat the ribbon cables, blow the fuzz out of the optical sensors, admit there’s not else much I can do, and reassemble it.

    Works like a champ again: I love zero-dollar fixes!

    I’m pretty sure this is Yet Another Ribbon Cable failure. Those cheap tin-on-tin connections get gassy after a few years, the resistance skyrockets, and (what with No User Serviceable Components Inside) the thing get tossed in the trash. Don’t get me started on RoHS.

    As part of all this, I discovered that desktop gadgets mostly use the 27 MHz band, with a few in the low VHF and Bluetooth at 2.4 GHz. I’d have laid money saying everything except BT was UHF, which just goes to show what I (don’t) know…