I know no more than you do about the situation, but I’d lay long, long odds Hannaford created the poster with a more recent version of Microsoft Word (or whatever) than the recipient organization has available, making the file essentially read-only.
Not casting shade on ’em; sometimes, you do what you gotta do.
FWIW, I’d expect LibreOffice and any Microsoft Word version other than the exact one used to create the poster to mangle the formatting differently. Been there, done that.
With the wrecked 5U4GB safely in the trash, I popped a smaller, somewhat less stately triode from the Big Box o’ Hollow-State Electronics and wired it up with a pair of SK6812 RGBW LEDs:
The tube’s markings have long since vanished, but, at this late date, all that matters is an intact glass envelope!
After two years, the ordinary white foam tape holding the knockoff Arduino Nano lost most of its sticktivity and easily popped off the 3D printed base:
Two layers of 3M outdoor-rated foam tape clear the bottom-side components and, based on current evidence, its stickiness should stick forever more:
The alert reader will notice the mis-soldered 1 kΩ SMT resistor above-and-right of the CH340 USB interface chip. I think those two resistors are the isolators between the 328P microcontroller and the CH340, letting you use the TX and RX lines as ordinary I/O without killing either chip.
Despite the mis-soldering, it evidently passed their QC and works fine. Seeing as how I didn’t notice it until just now, it’ll remain in place until I must open the lamp base for some other reason, which may never happen.
The data output is now on pin A5, to match the rest of the glowing widgetry:
Blobs of hot melt glue affix the SK6812 and wiring to the socket:
The original “plate cap” wiring ran directly through a hole in the hard drive platter, which I embiggened for a 3.5 mm panel-mount headphone jack. The knurled metal plug looms next to this smaller tube, but it looks better (in a techie sense) than the raw hole:
Octal tubes have an opaque Bakelite base, so I devoted some Quality Shop Time™ to the post:
Although I’d made a shell drill for 5U4’s base, this base was so crumbly I simply joysticked the spinning cutter around to knock off the rest of the post:
The shell drill would open the bottom to admit a bit more light. I may do that to see if it makes any visible difference.
I didn’t expect the serrations in the top mica plate to cast interesting patterns around the platter:
Memo to Self: use the shell drill to avoid nicking the evacuation tip!
Fortunately, the link fell off in the box and I recovered all the pieces for a failure analysis:
I’d glued the PLA together with IPS #4, a hellish mixture of plastic solvents including methylene chloride, one of the few chemicals able to chew into PLA, but there’s not much penetration or bonding going on.
Let’s try that again with a bit more solvent.
First, slide the bars into place:
I applied four solvent drops in two passes to give it time to work its way in, put four matching drops on the armor cap, squished the cap in place, tweaked the bar alignment, then applied pressure while contemplating the whichness of the why for half a minute while the solvent worked its magic.
Things look pretty good once more:
There’s no way to determine the repair’s goodness, other than by deliberately trying to snap off a bar, so I’ll just put it back in the box and hope for the best.
For reasons not relevant here, I recently conjured a pair of tables to support an injured arm (ours are OK!) in the bathroom: one table fitting in the narrow space adjacent to a toilet and the other across the threshold of a walk-in / sit-down shower.
That’s the Patriotic Blue version, which seemed the least offensive of the colors on offer at the local store.
The plastic pieces unsnap easily enough:
The legs also come apart by pulling outward at the crossover points. You may need to clean the flashing from all the joints, as they’re only as finished as absolutely necessary.
A table about half the width seemed about right, so I sawed the two top plates off their struts, then angled the strut ends to match the new leg angle:
Because it’s now completely floppy, I drilled holes for 5 mm screws through the struts:
In the process, I discovered stainless steel nyloc nuts tend to gall on stainless steel screws:
I lost a pair of screws + nuts before I got a clue and began adding a drop of machine oil to each screw before tightening the nuts. Haven’t had that problem with the 3 mm SS screws, so there’s always something new to learn.
With all the screws in place, the half-table becomes a rigid contraption:
The top looks like it’s suffering from severe barrel distortion, but it really started out looking that way:
The slat sides are all curved, except the far edge that was once in the middle of the table and now fits against the wall.
It may be slightly too short, but we can stack foam slabs on the top, probably held in place with cable ties.
Memo to Self: lube all the stainless steel screws!