Dell 2005FPW Monitor Disassembly & Recapping

The Dell 2005FPW monitor that I’d been using in portrait mode suffered the common failure of rebooting itself, which suggested failing capacitors. Despite my reservations, I dropped eleven bucks on a repair kit containing exactly the right caps (from sunny California via eBay), hauled the carcass to a couple of Squidwrench sessions, replaced the offending caps, and it’s all good again.

No pix of the recapping, but a few notes that may prove useful next time.

The standard advice from the usual Internet Sages recommends prying the bezel apart along the nearly invisible outside joint. I did that, then found the user manuals and the Fine Repair Manual and discovered that you jam your fingernails under the inside of the bezel against the LCD screen, pry upward, rotate / bend the bezel around its outer edge, and it Just Pops Off. I doubt it’s that easy, but …

You should start from the top of the bezel, because the PCB behind the buttons & LEDs along the bottom doesn’t have a whole lot of slack in its cable. This shows the PCB and disconnected cable:

Dell 2005FPW monitor - button PCB cable
Dell 2005FPW monitor – button PCB cable

Just pull the small brown latch away from the cable and the cable will slide out. That would be significantly easier if the socket were on the backside of the PCB, but you must pop the PCB out of its own latches before you get access to the socket latch. Rotate the bezel carefully around the PCB and maybe it’ll survive.

The pushbutton that releases the stand’s not-quite-a-VESA-mount bracket remains in place when you remove the rear cover, held in place by a wedge:

Dell 2005FPW monitor - mount release button detail
Dell 2005FPW monitor – mount release button detail

It is, however, the only thing sticking that far out of the back surface and, if you leave it alone, it will eventually release itself from captivity, whereupon its spring will fire it across the room. You have been warned.

Reassembly is in reverse order, although I didn’t snap the button-and-LED PCB firmly into place. Fixing that will require dismounting the bezel again, which I’m so not doing for a 1 mm gap along the bottom edge.