The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Month: March 2012

  • Kensington Expert Mouse: Unit 3

    A week or so ago, the scroll ring on the Kensington Expert Mouse trackball at my left hand failed completely. Unlike the previous repair attempts, tweaking the IR emitter-detector pair positions did nothing. Tried it on three different PCs and five different operating systems with the same result: the ring stayed dead.

    Fortunately, this one was a warranty replacement for the dead Unit 1 I bought some years back and was still within its 5 year warranty, so when I contacted Kensington tech support with the story they immediately shipped a replacement. It just arrived and works fine.

    The scroll ring detents seem much smoother on this one, so I haven’t taken it apart to remove the magnetic latch and don’t know if they’re using a different quadrature sensor. One can but hope.

    Kensington Expert Mouse - ball bearing
    Kensington Expert Mouse – ball bearing

    For what it’s worth, an absolutely brand new ball barely moves on those three jeweled bearings (one marked with the yellow oval in the picture). Just rub the ball on one side of your nose to add some skin oil: shazam it spins like glass on ice.

    They don’t mention that trick anywhere in the meager instructions…

    Update: Eight years in the future, a real fix appears!

  • MOSFET RDS Bestiary

    Some results from the MOSFET tester project!

    The 120 m 50 V BUZ71A that served as the crash test dummy while I got the thing working:

    BUZ71A-overview
    BUZ71A-overview

    A detail of the interesting area near the origin:

    BUZ71A-detail
    BUZ71A-detail

    The datasheet drain resistance values are the maximum values, so they’ll generally be higher than what I measure.

    A plastic-encapsulated W7NB80 with a 1.9  (!)  drain resistance, due to its 800 V (!) rating:

    W7NB80-overview
    W7NB80-overview

    Hold the gate voltage constant at 10.0 V and step the temperature from 0 °C to 50 °C:

    W7NB80-Temp
    W7NB80-Temp

    I haven’t figured out how to get the actual temperatures from the Gnuplot input dataset to the graph without knowing them in advance. The “index” is simply the 0-origin block number, which conveniently (and coincidentally) lines up with the 0 °C to 50 °C temperature range.

    An overview of a 400 m 200 V IRF630:

    IRF630-overview
    IRF630-overview

    The juicy part:

    IRF630-detail
    IRF630-detail

    And the variations with temperature:

    IRF630-Temp
    IRF630-Temp

    A 1.5  200 V IRF610, another high-resistance transistor:

    IRF610-overview
    IRF610-overview

    The temperature variations:

    IRF610-Temp
    IRF610-Temp

    The winning entry for high resistance, though, is the 500 Ω (!!!) BSS127 that emerged from a paper on current sensing using mirror FETs for temperature compensation. It has a 600 V rating, but I have no idea why such a high drain resistance makes any sense in a SOT-23 package. They’re obsolescent and I won’t buy any just to have ’em around.

    Just for completeness, a 1  1% resistor:

    Resistor - 1.0 ohm
    Resistor – 1.0 ohm

    And a 100 m 1% resistor:

    Resistor - 0.1 ohm
    Resistor – 0.1 ohm

    It turns out that the wire leads I soldered on contributed 6 m to the total, so the tester actually reports the truth! I checked that by passing 1.000 A through the resistor, which put 100 mV at the base of the resistor pins, then measuring 106 mV at the end of the wire leads. One can quibble about voltmeter accuracy, but it’s pretty close and much better than the ohmmeter accuracy at that resistance.

    The firmware forces 0.0  for drain current identically equal to 0.0 (it’s a floating point number cast from a 10-bit unsigned integer) to avoid numeric explosions. The next few points away from the origin show the effect of small errors on small measurements; the voltage resolution is 15 mV and the current resolution is 2.5 mA; you can actually see the steps near the origin.

    All in all, a fun project…

    Need the datasheets? Ask your favorite search engine for, say, IRF610 datasheet. That should do the trick.

  • Trinity College Robot Contest: Bounding Boxes

    New this year at the Trinity College Firefighting Home Robot Contest will be a Checkout Table, where teams can verify that their robot meets some initial specifications (Section 2.5 of The Rules). The overall size should be the easiest spec to check; I just glued up a pair of suitable Bounding Boxes:

    Trinity Robot Contest - bounding boxes
    Trinity Robot Contest – bounding boxes

    Robowaiter robots must fit in the smaller cube, which is 30 cm on a side. Firefighting robots must fit in the larger box, with wheeled / treaded robots inside the 31 x 31 x 27 cm outline and walkers within the larger 46 x 31 x 27 volume.

    Next step: fluorescent orange paint over a white shot coat to kill the lettering.

    And I didn’t even give myself a hot glue burn

  • Epson R380 Printhead Clog: Syringe Flush

    The saga of the blocked magenta printhead on my Epson R380 continues. The inlet posts that tap the R380 printer’s ink cartridges…

    R380 printhead ink inlets
    R380 printhead ink inlets

    … look like they ought to fit some sort of tubing and, indeed, a bit of rummaging produced a hank of suitable thick-walled plastic stuff. Heating one end until it went clear and floppy, then jamming it over a syringe’s Luer fitting produced a workable flushing tool:

    Syringe with tubing to fit R380
    Syringe with tubing to fit R380

    I folded a tissue, laid it over the sponges and wipers at the printhead park position, then pushed the ink tank carrier over the tissue to absorb the spray. Squirting three syringes full of 10% ethanol through the head cleaned out a few of the blocked jets, but didn’t produce a complete fix.

    Next up: homebrew window cleaner, diluted about 1:3 to knock back the ammonia concentration.

  • Canon SX230HS Lens Cap: Regluing

    I dropped that lens cap and the sheet-metal disk popped out; evidently the acrylic caulk doesn’t really count as an adhesive. Cleaned out the residue, ran a thin layer of urethane adhesive around the rim, and applied some clamps:

    Re-clamping the cover
    Re-clamping the cover

    Cleaned out the inevitable urethane bubbles that emerge from even the most minute opening and it’s all good.

  • Vermiculture Insect Control

    Fly Escape - overview
    Fly Escape – overview

    A few months after shaking off the previous fruit fly infestation, the worm compost bin has succumbed to another species of fruit fly that’s probably Drosophila melanogaster: much larger, breeds faster, and seems far more tenacious. Even though they’re completely innocuous, Something Must Be Done, but alas there are no insecticides suitable for a worm bin that produces vegetable garden compost. That reduces the situation to the Siege of Stalingrad: cut off their supplies and let them fight it out.

    It seems that fruit flies and their progeny die slightly faster than worms; after three or six weeks without feeding, the flies will should be history and the worms will be eating the dead. Temperatures in the Basement Laboratory Vermiculture Wing will remain in the 60 °F range for the next month or two, so the fly egg-to-adult time will be longer than the usual eight days and this may not work as well as we’d like.

    Assuming that succeeds, however, we’ll be freezing all the kitchen scraps that go into the bin to kill off the fruit fly eggs that arrive here from around the world. There seems no way to get fruits without fruit fly eggs, even with non-organic produce. Organic stuff, well, it’s worse than that.

    I conjured up a Fruit Fly Escape trap that should I hope will lure flies out of the bin to their death, while keeping the worms inside.This won’t help much with the current extreme infestation, but may help dry the bin’s upper layer and, when we get the population knocked down, should exterminate the more adventurous survivors. Obviously, we’re breeding for stay-at-home fruit flies and, given their rapid-prototyping life cycle, they may evolve into tiny couch potatoes.

    Anyhow.

    Flies like heat and light, while worms vastly prefer cool and dark, so the general idea is to drill a hole in the bin lid, fit a long tube over it, put an LED ring light at the base, and run a flypaper spiral up the tube to a vent cap near the top. The first picture gives an overview, although it’s tough to see the vertical tube against the clutter: it’s clear with two red spirals, having started life as some weird-ass holiday decoration for the previous owners of our house.

    Anyhow, the more interesting plastic bits look like this:

    Fly Escape - solid model
    Fly Escape – solid model

    The top ring is the vent cap, with a hole in the middle for a string supporting the sticky tape strip. The middle ring holds three sections of LED strip light that dissipate about 2 W from a 12 V wall wart; that’s enough heat around the tube to produce a slight upward draft. The riser tube at the bottom has an angled rim that compensates for the bin lid angle and holds the long tube vertical. The ring around the riser has a matching angle.

    They fit into the lid thusly:

    Fly Escape - Riser trial fit
    Fly Escape – Riser trial fit

    Two beads of hot-melt glue, top and bottom, hold them in place and make an air- / worm- / fly-tight seal.

    The inner tube holds the fly paper container and has a slight inward taper toward the top to wedge it in place:

    Fly Escape - solid model - bottom
    Fly Escape – solid model – bottom

    A similar view from inside the actual lid:

    Fly Escape - Riser trial fit - bottom
    Fly Escape – Riser trial fit – bottom

    That was the first pass at the dimensions; the tube walls didn’t quite join because I forgot to force the number of polygonal sides to be equal. It’s deliberately thin to make the walls springy, but everything must be Just Right to get both no fill and no space between the two perimeter threads.

    The riser and LED ring, combined with festive spiral stripes along the tube and some silicone tape sealing the tubes together, produce a cheery nuclear glow that’s enhanced by the victims mired in the adjacent flypaper strips. A third strip runs up the middle of the tube:

    Fly Escape in action
    Fly Escape in action

    The vent cap on the top of the tube has a small hole in the middle to hold the string supporting the flypaper spiral exactly in the middle of the tube. This view is upside-down from the mounted orientation :

    Fly Escape - Vent Cap
    Fly Escape – Vent Cap

    The alert reader will notice a red top plug in place of the vent cap in the first picture. This whole project happened over the course of a frantic afternoon, evening, and morning, with progressive product improvements along the way. For example, it turns out that some flies went pedestrian and walked up the inside of the tube, so there’s now a circle of screening inside that nice vented cap.

    Having a 3D printer to hammer out custom plastic widgetry on a short schedule = win.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Worm bin fly escape
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU - March 2012
    
    Layout = "Show";						// Build.. Show Riser Ring Cap
    
    //- Extrusion parameters - must match reality!
    
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 2.0 * ThreadThick;
    
    HoleFinagle = 0.3;
    HoleFudge = 1.00;
    
    function HoleAdjust(Diameter) = HoleFudge*Diameter + HoleFinagle;
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;						// make holes end cleanly
    
    //-- Dimensions
    
    RiserID = 47.0;							// ID = transparent riser tube OD
    RiserOD = 51.0;							// OD = hole in lid (matches hole saw OD)
    RiserHeight = 50.0;						// wall height from lid
    
    RiserSides = 4*8;						// for consistency & symmetry
    
    RiserBaseHeight = IntegerMultiple(5.0,ThreadThick);			// stop ring height
    RiserBaseID = RiserID - 2*1.0;								// stop ring ID
    
    LipOD = 59.0;							// OD of lip mounted on lid around tube
    LipAngle = 3.0;							// angle for lip to make tube vertical
    LipMinThick = IntegerMultiple(3.0,ThreadThick);		// min lip thickness
    LipAngleThick = LipOD*tan(LipAngle);				// angled section thickness
    LipThick = LipMinThick + LipAngleThick;				// total lip thickness
    
    RingClearance = 0.5;								// space between ring and tube
    
    TrapID = 23.0;							// sticky tape container OD
    TrapIDTaper = 2.0;						// taper to hold container in place
    TrapHeight = 45.0;						//  ... height
    TrapWallThickness = 2*ThreadWidth;
    TrapSides = 4*4;
    
    TrapFlanges = 3;						// number of support flanges
    TrapFlangeThick = IntegerMultiple(3.5,ThreadWidth);
    
    LEDThick = 2.5;							// LED strip thickness
    LEDWidth = 11.0;						//  ... width
    LEDWireOD = 3.0;						// power cable dia
    LightID = RiserID + 2*LEDThick;			// ID of LED collar
    LightOD = LightID + 2*4*ThreadWidth;		//  ... OD
    LightFlangeThick = IntegerMultiple(2.0,ThreadThick);
    
    CapID = RiserID;
    CapRingID = CapID - 2*1.5;
    CapOD = CapID + 2*4*ThreadWidth;
    CapBaseHeight = RiserBaseHeight;
    CapHeight = 10.0 + CapBaseHeight;
    CapSides = RiserSides;
    CapFlanges = 3;
    CapFlangeThick = TrapFlangeThick;
    CapGuideID = 3.0;
    CapGuideOD = CapGuideID + 6*ThreadWidth;
    
    //-- Sticky tape container holder
    
    module TrapMount() {
    
      ODBot = TrapID + 2*TrapWallThickness;
      ODTop = TrapID - TrapIDTaper + 2*TrapWallThickness;
    
      difference() {
    	union() {
    	  cylinder(r1=ODBot/2,r2=ODTop/2,h=TrapHeight,$fn=TrapSides);
    	  for (i=[0:TrapFlanges-1])
    		rotate(i*(360/TrapFlanges) + 90)			// align leg with thick side
    		  translate([RiserOD/4,0,RiserBaseHeight/2])
    			cube([(RiserOD/2 - 4*Protrusion),TrapFlangeThick,RiserBaseHeight],center=true);
    	}
    	translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    	  cylinder(r1=HoleAdjust(TrapID)/2,
    			   r2=HoleAdjust(TrapID - TrapIDTaper)/2,
    			   h=(TrapHeight + 2*Protrusion),
    			   $fn=TrapSides);
      }
    
    }
    
    //-- Riser tube
    
    module RiserTube() {
    
      TotalHeight = RiserHeight + RiserBaseHeight;
    
      difference() {
    	cylinder(r=RiserOD/2,h=TotalHeight,$fn=RiserSides);
    	translate([0,0,RiserBaseHeight])
    	  PolyCyl(RiserID,TotalHeight,RiserSides);
    	translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    	  cylinder(r=RiserBaseID/2,h=TotalHeight,$fn=RiserSides);
      }
    
    }
    
    //-- Angled lip around ring
    //		aligned with flat side downward at Z=0
    
    module LipRing(Clearance = 0.0) {
    
      difference() {
    	cylinder(r=LipOD/2,h=LipThick);
    	translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    	  cylinder(r=(RiserOD/2 + Clearance),
    			   h=(LipThick + 2*Protrusion),
    			   $fn=RiserSides);
    	rotate([LipAngle,0,0])
    	  translate([-LipOD,-LipOD,(LipMinThick + LipOD/2*tan(LipAngle))])
    		cube([2*LipOD,2*LipOD,LipAngleThick],center=false);
      }
    }
    
    //-- Collar to hold LED strip light
    
    module LEDCollar() {
    
      difference() {
    	PolyCyl(LightOD,(LEDWidth + LightFlangeThick));
    	translate([0,0,LightFlangeThick])
    	  PolyCyl(LightID,(LEDWidth + Protrusion));
    	translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    	  PolyCyl(RiserID,(LightFlangeThick + 2*Protrusion));
    	translate([0,0,(LightFlangeThick + LEDWidth/2)])
    	  rotate([0,90,90])
    		PolyCyl(LEDWireOD,LightOD);
      }
    }
    
    //-- Cap to hold trap string and vent the tube
    
    module VentCap() {
    
    	union() {
    	  difference() {
    		cylinder(r=CapOD/2,h=CapHeight,$fn=CapSides);
    		translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    		  cylinder(r=CapRingID/2,h=(CapHeight +2*Protrusion),$fn=CapSides);
    		translate([0,0,CapBaseHeight])
    		  cylinder(r=CapID/2,h=CapHeight,$fn=CapSides);
    	  }
    	  difference() {
    		union() {
    		  for (i=[0:TrapFlanges-1])
    			rotate(i*(360/CapFlanges))
    			  translate([CapOD/4,0,CapBaseHeight/2])
    				cube([(CapOD/2 - 4*Protrusion),CapFlangeThick,CapBaseHeight],center=true);
    		  cylinder(r=CapGuideOD,h=CapBaseHeight);
    		}
    		translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    		  PolyCyl(CapGuideID,CapHeight);
    	  }
    	}
    
    }
    
    //-- Handy routines
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {           // based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleFinagle)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);
    }
    
    //-- Put peg grid on build surface
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      Range = floor(50 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-Range:Range])
    	  for (y=[-Range:Range])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    	for (z=[1:10])
    	  translate([0,0,z*Space])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    }
    
    //- Build it
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    if (Layout == "Ring")
      LipRing();
    
    if (Layout == "Riser")
      RiserTube();
    
    if (Layout == "Cap")
      VentCap();
    
    if (Layout == "Show") {
      color("SkyBlue") {
    	TrapMount();
    	RiserTube();
    	LipRing();
      }
      color("Salmon")
    	translate([0,0,2*LipThick])
    	  rotate([180,0,0])
    		LipRing(RingClearance);
      color("Chocolate")
    	translate([0,0,(1.25*RiserHeight)])
    	  LEDCollar();
      color("Sienna")
    	translate([0,0,2*RiserHeight])
    	  rotate([180,0,0])
    		VentCap();
    }
    
    if (Layout == "Build1") {
      TrapMount();
      RiserTube();
      LipRing();
    }
    
    if (Layout == "Build2") {
    	LipRing(RingClearance);
    }
    
    if (Layout == "Build3") {
    	LEDCollar();
    }
    
    if (Layout == "Build4") {
    	VentCap();
    }
    
  • Bald Cardinal

    Something weird is going on with the Northern Cardinals at our feeder. First a female missing a leg, now a male minus his head feathers:

    Bald Cardinal - right side
    Bald Cardinal – right side

    A view from the other side:

    Bald Cardinal - left side
    Bald Cardinal – left side

    A bit of searching with the obvious keywords produced that writeup, which suggests feather mites or other parasites. Given that this was in March, that cardinal is definitely not molting!

    Those pictures are tight crops from a hand-held Canon SX230HS at dusk, through two layers of 1950-vintage glass. Sorry about that, but the bird spooks whenever I crack the door open for a better view.