Having successfully drilled and tapped eight 4-40 holes for the MOSFETs and two 8-32 holes for the heatsink clamps, I needed four more holes for the 6-32 standoffs that will mount the heat spreader to the base. As is always the case, the tap broke in the next-to-last hole…
This is a three-flute tap, the break is recessed below the surface, and it looks like it’s cracked along one of the flutes. Bleh! I don’t have any tap extractors, mostly because I don’t do that much tapping, and I doubt the extractors work all that well on tiny taps.
I tried something I’d never done before: slit the top of the tap with an abrasive wheel and unscrew it. That didn’t work, of course, but it’s a useful trick to keep in mind. I think the tap was cracked lengthwise and, in any event, a three-flute tap doesn’t have the proper symmetry for a slot. Better luck with larger four-flute taps.
So I must dig the mumble thing out…
The overall plan:
- Clamp the heat spreader to the Sherline tooling plate
- Helix-mill a trench around the tap
- Grab the stub with Vise-Grips
- Unscrew it
- Repair the damage
The clearance hole for a 6-32 screw is 0.1405 inch and that’s a 3/16-inch end mill: 70 + 93 = 163 mil radius, call it 0.170 inch. You really don’t want to kiss the tap flutes with the end mill, so you could make that the ID a bit larger.
Manual CNC, feeding commands into Axis and using the history list to chew downward 20 mils on each pass. With the origin in the middle of the broken tap and the cutter starting at (-0.170,0), the code looks like:
G2 I+0.170 Z=-0.020 G2 I+0.170 Z=-0.040 ... and so on ...
About 3000 rpm and 2 inches per minute feed; the feed was too slow, because the aluminum chips were much too fine. I actually used cutting lube for this job: the heat spreader got nice and warm.
I stopped at Z=-0.100 and made a final pass around the bottom of the hole to clean out the ramp. Then, try unscrewing the tap…
Of course, the stub broke off more or less flush with the bottom of the hole, so I continued milling downward to Z=-0.260, a bit more than halfway through the plate. This time, the needle-nose Vise-Grips got a good grip on an uncracked section and the remains twisted out with very little effort.
Although the central pillar is outside the tap’s OD, leaving a solid aluminum shell, there’s not much meat to it. The shell broke off with the first twist and came out with the tap.
Those are not, by the way, gold-plated Vise-Grips. It’s a flash picture and the worklight is a warm-white compact fluorescent: the color correction that makes the aluminum look neutral gray turns the reflected CFL into gold.
I milled off the remains of the shell around the tapped hole, leaving a more-or-less flat bottom. If I cared enough, I’d machine a snug-fitting replacement aluminum plug, epoxy it into place, then (attempt to) drill-and-tap the hole again.
Instead, because the hole was deep enough for a pair of 6-32 nuts and a washer, I simply aligned those on a screw and filled the hole with JB Weld epoxy.
It doesn’t show in the picture, but the screw is well-lubricated with silicone grease to prevent it from becoming one with the nuts.
I eased epoxy into the recess, chasing out the inevitable air bubbles, and then scraped off most of the excess.
Let it cure overnight, scrub it on some sandpaper atop the sacrificial side of the surface plate, and it’s all good again…
The little finger of epoxy sticking out to the front fills the end of the slit I carved into the top of the tap, which is visible in the other pictures if you look closely. The area around the hole isn’t stained; that’s smooth epoxy.
Of course, the thermal conductivity of epoxy is a lot less than that of solid aluminum. I’m not really pushing the limits of TO-220 packages, so this kludge will work fine in this application. It’s also nice that the repair is on the bottom of the heat spreader, where nobody will ever know I screwed up…
Now, to return to the project at hand, with even more motivation to avoid tapping holes in the future!