After a while you realize that whacking the drawbolt to extract a tapered tool or collet can’t possibly be a Good Thing for the spindle bearings, particularly on the 10k rpm head. So you need one of these, a low-effort / low-skill version of the beauty described in Sherline’s Tip 15.
It’s basically a length of all-thread rod with a nut epoxied on the top, a nut soldered to a sleeve that locks to the spindle, and a brass tip epoxied on the bottom to push the taper out.
Drill a suitable hole in the nut for a steel rod, add heatshrink tubing on both sides so it doesn’t fall out. If you’re clever, you’ll make the rod short enough that it fits in your tool tray along with all the other itsy-bitsy tools and parts.
Bore out a steel cylinder to clear the top of the Sherline spindle and drill a small hole to exactly match the hole in the side of the spindle. Turn down the end of another nut to fit inside the cylinder and silver-solder them together. Maybe epoxy would work here, too.
Find or make a steel locking pin that fits the small holes, make a cute handle for it, press in place. Take some care that the handle radius clears the headstock pulley. It’s a very good idea to have a much better fitting pin than I started with; a too-small pin will goober the top edge of the spindle hole. Ask me how I know…
Turn the end of the all-thread down to a little post, drill a slightly larger hole in the brass tip which you turned to fit down the spindle bore, goosh together with epoxy. Hint: spin the cylinder on the all-thread before epoxying the tip in place.
- Remove drawbolt
- Spin cylinder up the all-thread a bit
- Insert extractor in the spindle
- Line up small holes, insert locking pin
- Insert tommy bar in spindle
- Turn the extractor handle & hold the tommy bar: don’t torque the locking pin!
- Cup your hand under the cutter to catch it before it hits the part / table
- … profit!
This goes a lot faster than it sounds and feels much nicer than beating the crap out of my precious Sherline head.