Posts Tagged Repairs
Capping a Sink Drain Pipe
Posted by Ed in Home Ec, Machine Shop on 18-May-2013
We put the new furnace (replacing the old one) closer to the wall with the flue pipe, displacing an ancient slop sink (which vanished from the end of the driveway in about an hour) in the process. I “plugged” the drain with a twist of paper towel until the installation was done:
The overexposed blue-hot glow comes from the LED worklight on the right.
Despite being chrome-plated brass, the nut at the base of that vertical chrome pipe was firmly corroded to the short nipple emerging from the iron tee. After a few minutes of fruitless wrenching, I deployed a Dremel cutting wheel, slit the nut, gave it a shot with a chisel, and it popped loose. A rubber cap clamped around the nipple finished the job:
Next case!
MTD Snowthrower: Transmission Repair
Posted by Ed in Home Ec, Machine Shop on 4-May-2013
During the next-to-last snowfall, the gearshift on our MTD snowthrower jammed in high gear, but the wheels turned much more slowly than usual. Slightly before the last snowfall, I removed the cover over the transmission and discovered what went wrong:
That rubber wheel should be resting on the circular transmission plate, but somehow it slid off the far right edge. The spring-loaded clutch cable then pulled the plate upward, so that the side of the wheel drove the edge of the plate. Ouch.
The plate rotates on a bearing around a post on the folded red steel support structure underneath it, which pivots on a rod across the transmission housing behind everything that’s visible here. That rod used to protrude through the housing, but it had slipped inside and moved the plate to the left enough to let the wheel fall off. Some awkward maneuvering got it back through the hole, which made the real problem obvious:
There’s supposed to be a cotter pin or hitch pin clip through that hole, with a washer matching the obvious wear marks:
That’s actually a spacing shim from a collection that I’ve used rather infrequently over the years, but it’s exactly the right thickness to make the answer come out right.
A few weeks later, we found the missing washer on the driveway at about the point where I first noticed the transmission wasn’t working. It’s in the box of parts, waiting for the new cotter pin to wear out.
Broom Handle Screw Thread: Replacement Plug
Posted by Ed in Home Ec, Machine Shop, Software on 1-April-2013
Somehow, we wound up with a broom handle and a broom head, the former missing a threaded stub that was firmly lodged in the latter. A few minutes of Quality Shop Time sawed off the end of the handle and unscrewed the stub to produce this array of fragments:
It’s a cylindrical Thing tailor-made for (or, back in the day, by!) a lathe. My lathe has quick-change gears that can actually cut a 5 TPI thread, but that seems like a lot of work for such a crude fitting. Instead, an hour or so of desk work produced this:
Some after-the-fact search-fu revealed that the thread found on brooms and paint rollers is a 3/4-5 Acme. Machinery’s Handbook has 13 pages of data for various Acme screw threads, making a distinction between General Purpose Acme threads and Stub Acme Threads: GP thread depth = 0.5 × pitch, Stub = 0.3 × pitch. For a 5 TPI thread = 0.2 inch pitch, that’s GP = 0.1 inch vs. Stub = 0.06 inch.
I measured a 5.0 mm pitch (which should be 5.08 mm = 0.2 inch exactly) and a crest-to-root depth of 1.4 mm = 0.055 inch, which makes them look like 3/4-5 Stub Acme threads. But, I didn’t know that at the time; a simple half-cylinder 2.5 mm wide and 1.25 mm tall was a pretty close match to what I saw on the broken plastic part.
Although OpenSCAD’s MCAD library has some screw forms, they’re either machine screws with V threads or ball screws with spheres. The former obviously weren’t appropriate and the latter produced far too many facets, so I conjured up a simpler shape: 32 slightly overlapping cylinders per turn, sunk halfway in the shaft at their midpoint, and tilted at the thread’s helix angle.
The OpenSCAD source code has a commented-out section that removes a similar shape from the shaft between the raised thread, but that brought the rendering to its knees. Fortunately, it turned out to be unnecessary, but it’s there if you want it.
With the shaft diameter set to the “root diameter” of the thread and the other dimensions roughly matching the broken plastic bits, this emerged an hour later:
The skirt thread was 0.25 to 0.30 mm thick, so the first-layer height tweak and packing density adjustments worked fine and all the dimensions came out perfectly. The cylindrical thread form doesn’t have much overhang and the threads came out fine; I think the correct straight-sided form would have more problems.
The hole down the middle accommodates a 1/4-20 bolt that applies enough clamping force to keep the shaft in compression, which ought to prevent it from breaking in normal use. I intended to use a hex bolt, but found a carriage bolt that was exactly the right length and had a head exactly the same diameter as the shaft, so I heated it with a propane torch and mushed its square shank into the top of the hexagonal bolt hole (the source code now includes a square recess):
The dimples on the side duplicate the method that secured the original plastic piece: four dents punched into the metal handle lock the plastic in place. It seems to work reasonably well, though, and is certainly less conspicuous than the screws I’d use.
Screwing it in place shows that it’s slightly too long (I trimmed the length in the source code):
It’s back in service, ready for use…
The OpenSCAD source code:
// Broom Handle Screw End Plug
// Ed Nisley KE4ZNU March 2013
// Extrusion parameters must match reality!
// Print with +1 shells and 3 solid layers
ThreadThick = 0.25;
ThreadWidth = 2.0 * ThreadThick;
HoleWindage = 0.2;
function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
//----------------------
// Dimensions
PI = 3.14159265358979;
PostOD = 22.3; // post inside metal handle
PostLength = 25.0;
FlangeOD = 24.0; // stop flange
FlangeLength = 3.0;
PitchDia = 15.5; // thread center diameter
ScrewLength = 20.0;
ThreadFormOD = 2.5; // diameter of thread form
ThreadPitch = 5.0;
BoltOD = 7.0; // clears 1/4-20 bolt
BoltSquare = 6.5; // across flats
BoltHeadThick = 3.0;
RecessDia = 6.0; // recesss to secure post in handle
OALength = PostLength + FlangeLength + ScrewLength; // excludes bolt head extension
$fn=8*4;
echo("Pitch dia: ",PitchDia);
echo("Root dia: ",PitchDia - ThreadFormOD);
echo("Crest dia: ",PitchDia + ThreadFormOD);
//----------------------
// Useful routines
module Cyl_Thread(pitch,length,pitchdia,cyl_radius,resolution=32) {
Cyl_Adjust = 1.25; // force overlap
Turns = length/pitch;
Slices = Turns*resolution;
RotIncr = 1/resolution;
PitchRad = pitchdia/2;
ZIncr = length/Slices;
helixangle = atan(pitch/(PI*pitchdia));
cyl_len = Cyl_Adjust*(PI*pitchdia)/resolution;
union() {
for (i = [0:Slices-1]) {
translate([PitchRad*cos(360*i/resolution),PitchRad*sin(360*i/resolution),i*ZIncr])
rotate([90+helixangle,0,360*i/resolution])
cylinder(r=cyl_radius,h=cyl_len,center=true,$fn=12);
}
}
}
module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
h=Height,
$fn=Sides);
}
module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
Range = floor(50 / Space);
for (x=[-Range:Range])
for (y=[-Range:Range])
translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
%cube(Size,center=true);
}
//-------------------
// Build it...
ShowPegGrid();
difference() {
union() {
cylinder(r=PostOD/2,h=PostLength);
cylinder(r=PitchDia/2,h=OALength);
translate([0,0,PostLength])
cylinder(r=FlangeOD/2,h=FlangeLength);
translate([0,0,(PostLength + FlangeLength)])
Cyl_Thread(ThreadPitch,(ScrewLength - ThreadFormOD/2),PitchDia,ThreadFormOD/2);
}
translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
PolyCyl(BoltOD,(OALength + 2*Protrusion),6);
translate([0,0,(OALength - BoltHeadThick)])
PolyCyl(BoltSquare,(BoltHeadThick + Protrusion),4);
// translate([0,0,(PostLength + FlangeLength + ThreadFormOD)])
// Cyl_Thread(ThreadPitch,(ScrewLength - ThreadFormOD/2),PitchDia,ThreadFormOD/2);
for (i = [0:90:270]) {
rotate(i)
translate([PostOD/2,0,PostLength/2])
sphere(r=RecessDia/2,$fn=8);
}
}
Sawhorse: Cap Bracket Repair
Posted by Ed in Machine Shop, Oddities on 27-March-2013
While extricating the sawhorses from the garage, one of the bright yellow cap strips fell off. Whether by coincidence or not, it was the same one I’d previously repaired after sawing completely through the poor thing, but this time the failure came from what’s called inherent vice in the molded bracket-and-pin feature that holds the cap in place:
I filed a flat on the top of the bracket, drilled a 4-40 clearance hole, and then held everything in place while drilling a 4-40 tapping hole into the sawhorse. There was just enough plastic to make all that work, at least for the not very strenuous conditions it should experience around here:
While trying to reassemble the cap, I discovered why the bracket broke. The yellow cap has a bulkhead with an opening for the pin, plus a solid bulkhead that butts against the hinge along the top of the sawhorse. The bulkheads lie too close together: you simply cannot get the opening over the pin on this end with the cap parallel to the top of the sawhorse, which you must do in order to get the pin in the corresponding hole on that end.
Evidently they had the same problem at the factory and “solved” it by melting the bulkhead with a hot blade:
That didn’t really help me, but I carved off a few more slices to weaken the solid bulkhead enough to bend it around the hinge. I think the strain involved in the original assembly, plus what happened when I had to take it apart to fix the sawed-off end, weakened the bracket enough to snap off at some point over the winter.
Outdoor Lamp Replacement
Posted by Ed in Home Ec, Machine Shop on 26-March-2013
Mad Phil asked me to replace the bulb in a lamp along the walkway to their garage, which turned into a bit of a circus: the bulb had shattered, leaving only the base in the socket. After clearing away the rubble, I was confronted with this:
I removed the entire lamp housing, laid it out on my workbench, and eventually resorted to jamming needle-nose pliers into the base and forcibly unscrewing it. That worked:
Fortunately, the aluminum lamp base had corroded against the brass socket, not the other way around, so buffing the socket with a brass wheel in a Dremel handset and polishing the base contacts brought it back to life.
Reassemble the lamp and it’s all good…
Cassette Tape Case Repair
Posted by Ed in Home Ec, Machine Shop on 25-March-2013
Mary has been listening to library books while she quilts and sews; some of the older books actually come on cassette tape and our tape players still work. The newer books come on CDs, but it seems the library hasn’t gotten into audio e-reader files yet. She actually prefers tapes, because she can simply stop the tape and restart it from the same place without any further intervention.
In any event, a recent tape stalled about 1/4 of the way through and refused to either rewind or fast forward.
Rather than returning it to the library, which I’m certain all previous borrowers did, I took the cassette apart. This is no big deal, I’ve done it many times before cassettes fell into the dustbin of history.
That made the failure quite obvious:
The bushing around one of the hub openings had completely fractured and come loose, jamming the tape hub in place.
A ring of solvent adhesive around both parts, a few minutes of clamping, and it’s all good again.
Don’t tell the library; they get tetchy about DIY repairs…
Dayton 4X221 Snap-Around Volt-Amp-Ohm Meter
Posted by Ed in Electronics Workbench, Machine Shop on 24-March-2013
Mad Phil forced me to take this little gem:
Judging from the much-folded Dayton 4X221 Snap-Around Ammeter Operating Instructions (a scanned copy that I folded around the original and tucked inside the case), the ammeter dates back to 1979, which says Mad Phil probably used it in the early 80s, when he was repairing AV equipment. Unlike most vintage clamp-on ammeters, this one can also measure voltage and resistance:
The resistance function requires a single AAA alkaline cell in the bulky probe, so this should come as no surprise:
The probe housing contains a 1 A fast-blow fuse, which blocked the corrosion from getting deeper into the probe tip:
The AAA cell was “Best if installed by Jan 1999″, which I’m sure was true. Somehow, you never recognize the last time you use something; I suppose old instruments get used to not seeing the light over the workbench after a while.
Anyhow.
Douse the corrosion with vinegar to neutralize the potassium hydroxide, rinse out the probe body, polish the top of the fuse, buff up the battery contact on the test lead, and it’s all good again.






















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