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	<title>Comments on: Kenwood / Wouxun Headset Jack Spacing</title>
	<atom:link href="http://softsolder.com/2012/08/17/kenwood-wouxun-headset-jack-spacing/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://softsolder.com/2012/08/17/kenwood-wouxun-headset-jack-spacing/</link>
	<description>Ed Nisley&#039;s Blog: shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, and curiosities</description>
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		<title>By: Ed</title>
		<link>http://softsolder.com/2012/08/17/kenwood-wouxun-headset-jack-spacing/#comment-12650</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Ed]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Aug 2012 01:15:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://softsolder.com/?p=10976#comment-12650</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[&lt;blockquote&gt;You use a lot of epoxy&lt;/blockquote&gt;

It&#039;s the right hammer for a surprising number of problems; if I never want to take it apart, there&#039;s no reason to bother with fasteners! Of course, that same logic annoys me no end when it&#039;s applied to consumer electronics...

I save plastic lids from raisin canisters and suchlike specifically for mixing epoxy: broad, flat, shallow, easy to smoosh the resin and hardener into a uniform mass. The house came with a supply of thin wooden sticks that are &lt;em&gt;perfect&lt;/em&gt; for mixing epoxy; I have no idea where to get more of them, though.


&lt;blockquote&gt;enveloping them in a Sugru wad&lt;/blockquote&gt;

That should work fine!

Mostly, you just need something to protect the wires and hold the plugs in place; there&#039;s no real strength involved. Epoxy putty is fairly strong, even if it&#039;s not in the same class as JB Weld, and has the key advantage of not dripping.

Mixing putty is dead simple: just cut a length from the rod and knead it together. Alas, my putty stock is aging out: the outer layer has formed a brittle skin. Still works ...]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote><p>You use a lot of epoxy</p></blockquote>
<p>It&#8217;s the right hammer for a surprising number of problems; if I never want to take it apart, there&#8217;s no reason to bother with fasteners! Of course, that same logic annoys me no end when it&#8217;s applied to consumer electronics&#8230;</p>
<p>I save plastic lids from raisin canisters and suchlike specifically for mixing epoxy: broad, flat, shallow, easy to smoosh the resin and hardener into a uniform mass. The house came with a supply of thin wooden sticks that are <em>perfect</em> for mixing epoxy; I have no idea where to get more of them, though.</p>
<blockquote><p>enveloping them in a Sugru wad</p></blockquote>
<p>That should work fine!</p>
<p>Mostly, you just need something to protect the wires and hold the plugs in place; there&#8217;s no real strength involved. Epoxy putty is fairly strong, even if it&#8217;s not in the same class as JB Weld, and has the key advantage of not dripping.</p>
<p>Mixing putty is dead simple: just cut a length from the rod and knead it together. Alas, my putty stock is aging out: the outer layer has formed a brittle skin. Still works &#8230;</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Keith Neufeld</title>
		<link>http://softsolder.com/2012/08/17/kenwood-wouxun-headset-jack-spacing/#comment-12647</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Keith Neufeld]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Aug 2012 21:22:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://softsolder.com/?p=10976#comment-12647</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The jacks making the plugs not parallel -- that totally makes sense.

You use a lot of epoxy -- you obviously have the knack for mixing it right, which somehow I&#039;ve never managed to pick up.  But rereading your older post makes me wonder about jamming the plugs into the jacks and enveloping them in a Sugru wad rather than epoxy.  I think it&#039;d have enough give to allow you to extract the plugs.  The question is whether it&#039;s too soft to provide the protection you need.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The jacks making the plugs not parallel &#8212; that totally makes sense.</p>
<p>You use a lot of epoxy &#8212; you obviously have the knack for mixing it right, which somehow I&#8217;ve never managed to pick up.  But rereading your older post makes me wonder about jamming the plugs into the jacks and enveloping them in a Sugru wad rather than epoxy.  I think it&#8217;d have enough give to allow you to extract the plugs.  The question is whether it&#8217;s too soft to provide the protection you need.</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Ed</title>
		<link>http://softsolder.com/2012/08/17/kenwood-wouxun-headset-jack-spacing/#comment-12624</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Ed]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Aug 2012 15:02:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://softsolder.com/?p=10976#comment-12624</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[&lt;blockquote&gt;a measurement of two loose pins in the jacks&lt;/blockquote&gt;

I ran into several problems while I sat there at the bench, poking things into the radio and wondering what to do. [grin]

&lt;ul&gt;	&lt;li&gt;The jacks apply an asymmetric force to the plugs, so the plugs don&#039;t emerge perpendicular to the radio and don&#039;t lie parallel to each other.&lt;/li&gt;
	&lt;li&gt;The jacks lie in a recess that makes it impossible to measure down where it really counts.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;The jacks lie under a rubber gasket with snug-fitting holes, so I&#039;d probably be measuring the gasket rather than the jacks.&lt;/li&gt;
	&lt;/ul&gt;

The first problem burned me badly on an earlier iteration of this project with an ICOM Z1A radio: I &lt;em&gt;firmly&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://softsolder.com/2009/06/27/plug-alignment-for-icom-ic-z1a-radio/&quot; title=&quot;Seemed like a good idea at the time&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wedged a pair of plugs into the radio&lt;/a&gt; and had to break up the epoxy blob to extract them. Now I make alignment plates and gluing fixtures and I don&#039;t have that problem any more. [sigh]

Anyhow, I figured I&#039;d just space my plugs the way the Big Boys do, but it&#039;s not clear they all do the same thing...]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote><p>a measurement of two loose pins in the jacks</p></blockquote>
<p>I ran into several problems while I sat there at the bench, poking things into the radio and wondering what to do. [grin]</p>
<ul>
<li>The jacks apply an asymmetric force to the plugs, so the plugs don&#8217;t emerge perpendicular to the radio and don&#8217;t lie parallel to each other.</li>
<li>The jacks lie in a recess that makes it impossible to measure down where it really counts.</li>
<li>The jacks lie under a rubber gasket with snug-fitting holes, so I&#8217;d probably be measuring the gasket rather than the jacks.</li>
</ul>
<p>The first problem burned me badly on an earlier iteration of this project with an ICOM Z1A radio: I <em>firmly</em> <a href="http://softsolder.com/2009/06/27/plug-alignment-for-icom-ic-z1a-radio/" title="Seemed like a good idea at the time" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">wedged a pair of plugs into the radio</a> and had to break up the epoxy blob to extract them. Now I make alignment plates and gluing fixtures and I don&#8217;t have that problem any more. [sigh]</p>
<p>Anyhow, I figured I&#8217;d just space my plugs the way the Big Boys do, but it&#8217;s not clear they all do the same thing&#8230;</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Keith Neufeld</title>
		<link>http://softsolder.com/2012/08/17/kenwood-wouxun-headset-jack-spacing/#comment-12620</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Keith Neufeld]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Aug 2012 13:30:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://softsolder.com/?p=10976#comment-12620</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[It sounds as thought you were measuring the pin spacing of plug assemblies that were already made?  I think I would have supplemented that with a measurement of two loose pins in the jacks -- again outside distance across the pins minus each pin&#039;s radius.  You might know of an insightful mechanical reason that that wouldn&#039;t have been helpful?]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It sounds as thought you were measuring the pin spacing of plug assemblies that were already made?  I think I would have supplemented that with a measurement of two loose pins in the jacks &#8212; again outside distance across the pins minus each pin&#8217;s radius.  You might know of an insightful mechanical reason that that wouldn&#8217;t have been helpful?</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Wouxun KG-UV3D Plug Plate &#171; The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning</title>
		<link>http://softsolder.com/2012/08/17/kenwood-wouxun-headset-jack-spacing/#comment-12604</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Wouxun KG-UV3D Plug Plate &#171; The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 19 Aug 2012 11:28:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://softsolder.com/?p=10976#comment-12604</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[[...] on those measurements that suggest spacing the plugs at 11.5 mm on center, I tweaked that parameter in the source code [...]]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] on those measurements that suggest spacing the plugs at 11.5 mm on center, I tweaked that parameter in the source code [...]</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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